System Maintenance and Assembly of your Laptop

By Scott Mueller

Date: Dec 19, 2003

Sample Chapter is provided courtesy of Que.

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A little care combined with some simple preventive maintenance procedures can reduce problem behavior, data loss, and component failure as well as ensure a longer, trouble-free life for your laptop. Scott Mueller covers the details.

Preventive Maintenance

Preventive maintenance is the key to obtaining years of trouble-free service from your computer. Laptop systems are especially prone to problems because they are portable and therefore exposed to more problems than desktop systems, which remain in a single location. All it takes is an accident such as dropping the system onto a hard surface to turn thousands of dollars worth of computer into so much junk. A little care combined with some simple preventive maintenance procedures can reduce problem behavior, data loss, and component failure as well as ensure a longer, trouble-free life for your system. In some cases, I have "repaired" ailing systems with nothing more than a preventive maintenance session. Preventive maintenance also can increase your system's resale value because it will look and run better.

Developing a preventive maintenance program is important to everyone who uses or manages laptops. The two types of preventive maintenance procedures are passive and active.

Passive preventive maintenance includes steps you can take to protect a system from the environment, such as using power-protection devices; ensuring a clean, temperature-controlled environment; and preventing excessive vibration. In other words, passive preventive maintenance means treating your system well.

An active preventive maintenance program includes procedures that promote a longer, trouble-free life for your laptop. This type of preventive maintenance primarily involves the periodic cleaning of the system and its components. The following sections describe both passive and active preventive maintenance procedures.

Passive Preventive Maintenance Procedures

Passive preventive maintenance involves taking care of the system by providing the best possible environment—both physical and electrical—for the system. Physical concerns include conditions such as ambient temperature, thermal stress from power cycling, dust and smoke contamination, and disturbances such as shock and vibration. Electrical concerns include items such as static electricity, power-line noise (when the system is plugged into a wall outlet or other external power source), and radio-frequency interference. Each of these environmental concerns is discussed in the following subsections.

General System Care and Handling

Laptop computers are expensive machines built with significantly tighter tolerances than their desktop counterparts. Although most laptops are designed to function reliably in normal environments, it helps to use some common sense when transporting, operating, or otherwise handling a system. If you treat the system as if it were a very expensive piece of precision electronic machinery (which it truly is!), you will greatly minimize the chances of problems occurring.

Instead of telling you what you should do to take care of your system, it is perhaps easier to tell you what you shouldn't do. I often observe people doing things to their laptop computers that make me cringe. Here is a list of bad things you should not do to your laptop computer:

The systems you use will last a lot longer if you avoid any of the aforementioned behavior.

The Operating Environment

Oddly enough, one of the most overlooked aspects of preventive maintenance is protecting the hardware—and the sizable financial investment it represents—from environmental abuse. Computers are relatively forgiving, and they are generally safe in an environment that is comfortable for people. Portable computers, however, are often tossed around and treated with no more respect than a cheap calculator. The result of this type of abuse is often numerous system failures.

Temperature, Humidity, and Altitude

All computers are designed to operate within specific ranges of temperature, humidity, and altitude. Exceeding the allowable ranges places stress on the system and can cause it to fail prematurely. Therefore, keeping an eye on the conditions where you both use and store your computer is important for the successful operation of the system.

Temperature, humidity, and altitude variations can lead to serious problems. If extreme variations occur over a short period, expansion and contraction can cause signal traces on circuit boards to crack and separate, and solder joints can break. Extreme humidity can cause contacts in the system to undergo accelerated corrosion or condensation to form in the system and disk drives. Extremely dry conditions can cause problems with static electricity. Operating at high altitudes causes problems with cooling (lower density air renders the cooling system less effective) as well as the internal "air bearing" on which the heads float in the drive while operating.

To ensure that your system will be operated in the temperature, humidity, and altitude ranges for which it was designed, I recommend you consult your system specifications for the environmental range limits. Most manufacturers provide data about the correct operating temperature range for their systems in the owner's manual. Two sets of specifications are normally listed—one that applies to an operating system, and the other for a system powered off. As an example, IBM indicates the following allowable environmental limits for most of its ThinkPad portable systems:

Maximum altitude without pressurization 10,000 ft. (3,048m)

Temperature range (not operating) 41°–110°F (5°–43°C)

Maximum temperature while operating

Above 8,000 ft. (2,438m) 88°F (31°C)

Below 8,000 ft. (2,438m) 95°F (35°C)

Minimum temperature while operating

Not using the floppy drive 41°F (5°C)

Using the floppy drive 50°F (10°C)

Minimum battery temperature when charging 50°F (10°C)

Relative humidity while operating

Not using the floppy drive 8%–95%

Using the floppy drive 8%–80%

Note that the maximum allowable ambient temperature drops to only 88°F (31°C) at altitudes over 8,000 ft. (2,438m). This is due to the lower air density at high altitudes, which reduces the efficiency of the computer's cooling system. Also note the minimum operating and nonoperating temperature of 41°F (5°C). This means that for many areas of the country, it may not be wise to leave a laptop system in a car for more than a short period or to ship a system using a mail or package carrier during the winter. As you can see from the table, most environmental conditions that are comfortable for people are also good for laptop computer use.

Temperature Acclimation

In addition to the temperature limits just discussed, it is a good idea to avoid rapid changes in temperature as well. If a rapid rise in temperature occurs—for example, when a system is shipped during the winter and then brought indoors—you should allow the system (and the hard drive inside) to acclimate to normal room temperature before turning it on. In extreme cases, condensation can form on the platters inside the drive's head-disk assembly (HDA), which is disastrous for the drive if you turn it on before the condensation has a chance to evaporate.

Most hard drives have a filtered port that bleeds air into and out of the had (hard drive assembly) so that moisture can enter the drive; therefore, after some period of time, it must be assumed that the humidity inside any hard disk is similar to the humidity outside the drive. Humidity can become a serious problem if it is allowed to condense—and especially if you power up the drive while this condensation is present. Most hard disk manufacturers have specified procedures for acclimating a hard drive to a new environment with different temperature and humidity ranges, especially for bringing a drive into a warmer environment in which condensation can form. This situation should be of special concern to users of laptop and portable systems. If you leave a portable system in an automobile trunk during the winter, for example, it could be catastrophic to bring the machine inside and power it up without allowing it time to acclimate to the temperature indoors.

The following text, along with Table 3.1, are taken from the factory packaging that Control Data Corporation (later Imprimis, and eventually Seagate) used to ship with its hard drives:

If you have just received or removed this unit from a climate with temperatures at or below 50°F (10°C), do not open this container until the following conditions are met; otherwise, condensation could occur and damage to the device and/or media may result. Place this package in the operating environment for the time duration according to the temperature chart.

Table 3.1 Hard Disk Drive Environmental Acclimation Table

Previous Climate Temperature

Acclimation Time

Previous Climate Temperature

Acclimation Time

+40°F (+4°C)

13 hours

–10°F (–23°C)

20 hours

+30°F (–1°C)

15 hours

–20°F (–29°C)

22 hours

+20°F (–7°C)

16 hours

–30°F (–34°C) or less

27 hours

+10°F (–12°C)

17 hours

 

 

0°F (–18°C)

18 hours

 

 

As you can see from this table, you must place a portable system with a hard drive that has been stored in a colder-than-normal environment into its normal operating environment for a specified amount of time to allow it to acclimate before you power it on. Manufacturers normally advise that you leave the system in its packing or carrying case until it is acclimated. Removing the system from a shipping carton when extremely cold increases the likelihood of condensation forming.

Of course, condensation can also affect other parts of the computer, especially circuit boards and connectors, causing short circuits or corrosion that can negatively affect operation or even cause damage.

Static Electricity

Static electricity or electrostatic discharge (ESD) can cause numerous problems within a system. The problems usually appear during the winter months when humidity is low or in extremely dry climates where the humidity is low year-round. In these cases, you might need to take special precautions to ensure that your computer is not damaged. See the section, "ESD Protection Tools," in this chapter for more information on ESD.

Static discharges outside a system-unit chassis are rarely a source of permanent problems within the system. Usually, the worst possible effect of a static discharge to the case, keyboard, or even a location near the computer is a system lockup, which can result in lost data. If you know you are carrying a charge, before touching the keyboard or system you might try discharging yourself by touching some other metal object or device to bleed off some of the charge. Whenever you open a system unit or handle devices removed from the system, you must be more careful with static.

Radio-Frequency Interference

Radio-frequency interference (RFI) is easily overlooked as a problem factor. The interference is caused by any source of radio transmissions near a computer system. Living next door to a 50,000-watt commercial radio station is one sure way to get RFI problems, but less-powerful portable transmitters can cause problems, too. I know of many instances in which cordless telephones have caused sporadic random keystrokes to appear, as though an invisible entity were typing on the keyboard. I also have seen strong RFI from portable two-way radios cause a system to lock up. Solutions to RFI problems are more difficult to state because every case must be handled differently. Sometimes, simply moving the system eliminates the problem because radio signals can be directional in nature. If you have external devices attached to your laptop (such as an external mouse or display), sometimes you must invest in specially shielded cables for these devices.

One type of solution to an RFI noise problem with cables is to pass the cable through a toroidal iron core, a doughnut-shaped piece of iron placed around a cable to suppress both the reception and transmission of electromagnetic interference (EMI). You'll notice these cores on many of the laptop external data (USB, FireWire, and so on) and power cords. If you can isolate an RFI noise problem in a particular cable, you often can solve the problem by passing the cable through a toroidal core. Because the cable must pass through the center hole of the core, it often is difficult to add a toroid to a cable that already has end connectors installed.

Radio Shack and other electronics supply stores sell special snap-together toroids designed specifically to be added to cables already in use. These look like a small cylinder that has been sliced in half. You simply lay the cable in the center of one of the halves, and snap the two halves together over the cable. This type of construction makes adding the noise-suppression features of a toroid to virtually any existing cable easy.

The best, if not the easiest, way to eliminate an RFI problem is to correct it at the source. It is unlikely that you'll be able to convince the commercial radio station near your office to shut down, but if you are dealing with a small radio transmitter that is generating RFI, sometimes you can add a filter to the transmitter that suppresses spurious emissions. Unfortunately, problems sometimes persist until the transmitter is either switched off or moved some distance away from the affected computer.

Dust and Pollutants

It should be obvious that dirt, smoke, dust, and other pollutants are bad for your system. The cooling fan found in most modern laptop systems carries airborne particles through the system, where they can collect inside. I'm not saying that it is unsafe to use a laptop system outside, or in an environment that isn't absolutely pristine, but I am saying that you should consider the working environment. If you take care of your system, it will serve you longer and with fewer problems.

If your system is going to be regularly used in an extreme working environment, you might want to investigate some of the specialized systems on the market specifically designed for use in harsh environments. Panasonic, for example, manufactures a complete line of systems called Toughbooks, which are specially designed to survive under harsh conditions. Durability features available in the Toughbook line include the following:

Unfortunately, in most cases, because rugged systems must be specially designed, and especially because they don't sell as well as the mainstream, nonrugged models, rugged systems are usually more limited in options, are not updated as frequently as mainstream models, and in general will offer much less performance than mainstream models. Still, if a mainstream model simply won't do for durability, you should consider one of the specially designed rugged models, such as the Panasonic Toughbooks. For more information on the Toughbook line of laptop systems, visit Panasonic at http://www.panasonic.com/toughbook.

Tips for Transporting Your System

When transporting a laptop computer, I recommend you consider the following guidelines in order to protect the system:

If your travel involves flying, you should be aware that FAA regulations now call for more rigorous screening of electronic devices, including laptop computers. The inspections normally require that you remove the system from its travel case and place the unprotected system on the conveyor belt that takes it through the X-ray machine. Make sure you don't put the system upside-down on the conveyor, because that can put pressure on the LCD, potentially causing damage.

In some cases you may be required to power-on the system after the trip through the X-ray machine in order to demonstrate computer functionality. In that situation, be sure you remember to power the system back off (or optionally place it in hibernate mode) before returning it to its travel case. Note that X-rays do not harm either the computer or removable storage media. See "Airport X-Ray Machines and Metal Detectors" in Chapter 10, "Removable Storage," for more information.

If you ever need to ship the system out via the mail or through a package carrier such as UPS or FedEx, it is extremely important that you properly pack the system to prevent damage. In general, it is hard to find a better shipping box and packing material than what the system was originally packed in when new. For that reason, I highly recommend you retain the original box and packing materials after purchasing a system. This will prove to be extremely useful in any case where you need to ship the system to a remote destination.

Following these guidelines for transporting or shipping the system will help to ensure the machine arrives in working order at the destination.

Active Preventive Maintenance Procedures

How often you should perform active preventive maintenance procedures depends on the environment in which you operate your system as well as the quality of the system's components. If your system is in a dirty environment, such as a machine shop floor or a gas station service area, you might need to clean your system every three months or less. For normal office environments, cleaning a system every few months to a year is usually fine. If you frequently use your system outdoors, it may require more frequent cleanings, depending on the amount of dirt and dust in the environment.

Other preventive maintenance procedures include making periodic backups of your data and critical areas, such as boot sectors, file allocation tables (FATs), and directory structures on the disk. Also, you should defragment your hard disks at least once a month to maintain disk efficiency and speed, as well as to increase your ability to recover data should there be a more serious problem. See the section on "Defragmenting Files" later in this chapter.

The following is a sample weekly disk-maintenance checklist:

The following are some monthly maintenance procedures you should perform:

Many people use a laptop as an accessory to a desktop system. In that case, you may have files that you work with while traveling that need to be synchronized with files on your desktop or on a server. You can use the Windows Briefcase or Synchronization Manager utility to accomplish this. Normally you want to synchronize files every time you disconnect and reconnect to your desktop system or network.

System Backups

One of the most important preventive maintenance procedures is the performance of regular system backups. A sad reality in the computer-repair-and-servicing world is that hardware can always be repaired or replaced, but data cannot. Many hard disk troubleshooting and service procedures, for example, require that you repartition or reformat the disk, which overwrites all existing data.

The hard disk drive capacity in a typical laptop system has grown far beyond the point at which floppy disks are a viable backup solution. Backup solutions that employ floppy disk drives are insufficient and too costly due to the amount of media required. Table 3.2 shows the number of units of different types of media required to back up the 80GB drive in my current laptop system.

Table 3.2 Amounts and Costs of Different Media Required to Back Up a Full 80GB Drive

Media Type

Number Required

Unit Cost

Net Cost

1.44MB floppy disks

54,883

$0.15

$8,232

48x 80-minute/700MB CD-R discs

109

$0.25

$27

4x 4.7GB DVD+-R discs

18

$1.50

$27

DAT DDS-4 tapes (native)

4

$15.00

$60

DAT DDS-4 tapes (compressed)

2

$15.00

$30

Assuming the drive is full, it would take 54,883 1.44MB floppy disks, for example, to back up the 80GB hard disk in my current laptop system! That would cost more than $8,232 worth of floppy disks, not to mention the time involved. My laptop includes a CD-RW drive, as do many of the systems today, but as you can see, even using CD-R would be miserable, requiring 109 discs to back up the entire drive. DVD+-R, on the other hand, would only require 18 discs, which still wouldn't be much fun but is much more doable in a pinch. Tape really shines here, because only two DAT DDS-4 tapes are required to back up the entire drive, meaning I would only have to switch tapes once during the backup. Although the media cost is a little higher with the tape as compared to CD/DVD, the time-savings are enormous. Imagine trying to back up a full 300GB drive in a desktop system, which would require 64 DVD+-R discs, but only eight DAT DDS-4 tapes.

Of course, these examples are extreme—most people don't have a full 80GB worth of data to back up. Also, if you organize your system properly, keeping data files separated from program files, you can get away with backing up only the data, and not the programs. This works because in most cases, if there is a drive failure, you will have to reinstall your operating system and all your applications from their original discs. Once the OS and applications are installed, you would restore the data files from your backups.

The best form of backup has traditionally been magnetic tape. The two main standards are Travan and DAT (digital audio tape). Travan drives are generally slower and hold less than the newest DAT drives, but both are available in relatively competitive versions. The latest Travan tape drives store 20GB/40GB (raw/compressed) on a single tape, whereas fifth-generation DAT DDS drives store 36GB/72GB per tape. These tapes typically cost $15 or less. If you use larger drives, new versions of DAT and other technologies can be used to back up your drive.

Another alternative for backup is to use a second, external hard drive of equal (or larger) capacity and simply copy from one drive to the other. With the low cost of drives these days, and the ease of connecting an external drive via USB or IEEE-1394 (FireWire/i.LINK), this turns out to be a fast, efficient, and reasonably economical method. However, if a disaster occurs, such as theft or fire, you could still lose everything. Also, with only one backup, if your backup goes bad when you depend on it, you'll be without any other alternatives.

You can perform hard disk–based backups for more than one system with an external hard drive. External hard disks are available in capacities up to 300GB or more, and if the destination drive is as large or larger than the source, the entire backup can be done in a single operation. Some external hard drive models (such as those from Maxtor) even offer one-button automated backups. Although the upfront cost of an external hard drive can be fairly significant (around $400 for a 250GB model, $200 for a 120GB model, or under $150 for an 80GB model), there is no additional media cost until you want to move some data to permanent tape, CD, or DVD storage.

TIP

No matter which backup solution you use, the entire exercise is pointless if you cannot restore your data from the storage medium. You should test your backup system by performing random file restores at regular intervals to ensure the viability of your data.

If your backup supports disaster recovery, be sure to test this feature as well by installing an empty drive and using the disaster-recovery feature to rebuild the operating system and restore the data.

Cleaning a System

One of the most important operations in a good preventive maintenance program is regular and thorough cleaning of the system inside and out. Unlike desktop systems, laptop systems don't have air flowing through all their parts, so they are more immune to dust internally and normally don't have to be disassembled for cleaning. Laptops do, however, usually have fans that draw air through cooling ducts with heatsinks mounted inside them. Dust buildup in these cooling passages can be a problem because the dust acts as a thermal insulator, which prevents proper cooling. Excessive heat shortens the life of components and adds to the thermal stresses caused by greater temperature changes between the system's full power and sleep/power-off states. Additionally, the dust can contain conductive elements that can cause partial short circuits in a system. Other elements in dust and dirt can accelerate corrosion of electrical contacts, resulting in improper connections. Regularly blowing out any dust and debris from the cooling passages (through the vents) will benefit that system in the long run.

Note that because laptop systems are much more difficult to disassemble, I normally don't recommend opening up or disassembling them just for cleaning. Of course, if you have the system open for some other reason, you should definitely take advantage of the opportunity and clean the interior components thoroughly. For most general preventive maintenance, cleaning the system externally or through any openings is sufficient. This means using either compressed air or a vacuum cleaner to clean dirt out of the keyboard, cooling vents, drive openings, data ports, or any other openings in the system.

TIP

Cigarette smoke contains chemicals that can conduct electricity and cause corrosion of computer parts. The smoke residue can infiltrate the entire system, causing corrosion and contamination of electrical contacts and sensitive components, such as floppy drive read/write heads and optical drive lens assemblies. You should avoid smoking near computer equipment and encourage your company to develop and enforce a similar policy.

Cleaning Tools

Properly cleaning the system requires certain supplies and tools. Here are some items used for cleaning:

These simple cleaning tools and chemical solutions enable you to perform most common preventive maintenance tasks.

Chemicals

Chemicals can be used to help clean, troubleshoot, and even repair a system. You can use several types of cleaning solutions with computers and electronic assemblies. Most fall into the following categories:

TIP

The makeup of many of the chemicals used for cleaning electronic components has been changing because many of the chemicals originally used are now considered environmentally unsafe. They have been attributed to damaging the earth's ozone layer. Chlorine atoms from chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) and chlorinated solvents attach themselves to ozone molecules and destroy them. Many of these chemicals are now strictly regulated by federal and international agencies in an effort to preserve the ozone layer. Most of the companies that produce chemicals used for system cleaning and maintenance have had to introduce environmentally safe replacements. The only drawback is that many of these safer chemicals cost more and usually do not work as well as those they've replaced.

Standard Cleaners

For the most basic function—cleaning exterior LCD screens, keyboards, and cases—a variety of chemicals are available. I normally recommend one of the following:

Other solutions such as antistatic LCD cleaning cloths and Kimwipes are also acceptable alternatives.

CAUTION

Isopropyl alcohol is a flammable liquid. Do not use alcohol cleaner near an exposed flame or when the system is on.

The solutions should generally be in liquid form, not a spray. Sprays can be wasteful, and you should never spray the solution directly on the system anyway. Instead, lightly moisten a soft lint-free cloth, which is then used to wipe down the parts to be cleaned.

Contact Cleaner/Lubricants

These chemicals are similar to the standard cleaners but are more pure and include a lubricating component. Although their cleaning applications are more limited when dealing with a laptop system, these chemicals do come in handy for cleaning connectors and internal or external cables. The lubricant eases the force required when plugging and unplugging cables and connectors, reducing strain on the devices. The lubricant coating also acts as a conductive protectant that insulates the contacts from corrosion. These chemicals can greatly prolong the life of a system by preventing intermittent contacts in the future.

A unique type of contact cleaner/enhancer and lubricant called Stabilant 22 is available. This chemical, which you apply to electrical contacts, enhances the connection and lubricates the contact point; it is much more effective than conventional contact cleaners or lubricants. Stabilant 22 is a liquid-polymer semiconductor; it behaves like liquid metal and conducts electricity in the presence of an electric current. The substance also fills the air gaps between the mating surfaces of two items that are in contact, making the surface area of the contact larger and also keeping out oxygen and other contaminants that can corrode the contact point.

This chemical is available in several forms. Stabilant 22 is the concentrated version, whereas Stabilant 22a is a version diluted with isopropyl alcohol in a 4:1 ratio. An even more diluted 8:1-ratio version is sold in many high-end stereo and audio shops under the name Tweek. Just 15ml of Stabilant 22a sells for about $40; a liter of the concentrate costs about $4,000!

As you can see, pure Stabilant 22 is fairly expensive, but only a little is required in any common application, and nothing else has been found to be quite as effective in preserving electrical contacts. NASA even uses this chemical on spacecraft electronics. An application of Stabilant can provide protection for up to 16 years, according to its manufacturer, D.W. Electrochemicals. In addition to enhancing the contact and preventing corrosion, an application of Stabilant lubricates the contact, making insertion and removal of the connector easier. See http://www.stabilant.com or check the Vendor List on this book's CD for more information.

Compressed-Air Dusters

Compressed air (actually a gas such as carbon dioxide) is often used as an aid in system cleaning. You use the compressed-air can as a blower to remove dust and debris from a system or component. Originally, these dusters used CFCs (chlorofluorocarbons) such as Freon, whereas modern dusters use either HFCs (hydrofluorocarbons such as difluoroethane) or carbon dioxide, neither of which is known to damage the ozone layer. Be careful when you use these devices, because some of them can generate a static charge when the compressed gas leaves the nozzle of the can. Be sure you are using the type approved for cleaning or dusting off computer equipment, and consider wearing a static grounding strap as a precaution. The type of compressed-air cans used for cleaning camera equipment sometimes differs from the type used for cleaning static-sensitive computer components.

When using these compressed-air products, be sure you hold the can upright so that only gas is ejected from the nozzle. If you tip the can, the raw propellant will come out as a cold liquid, which not only is wasteful but can damage or discolor plastics. You should use compressed gas only on equipment that is powered off, to minimize any chance of damage through short circuits.

What I recommend with laptops is to turn them sideways or upside down (with the power off) and use the compressed air to blast any junk out of the keyboard as well as any openings on the front, sides, or rear, especially any cooling vents. If you have the system open for any reason, you should take advantage of the opportunity to use the compressed air to blow any dust or dirt out of the interior as well.

Vacuum Cleaners

Some people prefer to use a vacuum cleaner instead of canned gas dusters for cleaning a system. Canned air is usually better for cleaning in small areas as is usually the situation with a portable system. A vacuum cleaner is more useful when you are cleaning a larger desktop system loaded with dust and dirt. You can use the vacuum cleaner to suck out the dust and debris instead of simply blowing it around on the other components, which sometimes happens with canned air. Still, vacuum cleaners are especially useful for sucking dirt out of keyboards, whether on a laptop or desktop system. I also recommend vacuuming the cooling vents on laptops, which is an easy way to remove dust without having to open the unit.

For onsite servicing (when you are going to the location of the equipment instead of the equipment coming to you), canned air is easier to carry in a toolkit than a small vacuum cleaner. Tiny vacuum cleaners also are available for system cleaning. These small units are easy to carry and can serve as an alternative to compressed-air cans. Some special vacuum cleaners are specifically designed for use on and around electronic components; they are designed to minimize electrostatic discharge (ESD) while in use. If you are using a regular vacuum cleaner and not one specifically designed with ESD protection, you should take precautions, such as wearing a grounding wrist strap. Also, if the cleaner has a metal nozzle, be careful not to touch it to the circuit boards or components you are cleaning.

Brushes and Swabs

You can use a small makeup brush, photographic brush, or paintbrush to carefully loosen the accumulated dirt and dust inside a laptop PC before spraying it with canned air or using the vacuum cleaner. Be careful about generating static electricity, however. In most cases, you should not use a brush directly on any circuit boards, but only on the case interior and other parts, such as fan blades, air vents, and keyboards. Wear a grounded wrist strap if you are brushing on or near any circuit boards, and brush slowly and lightly to prevent static discharges from occurring.

Use cleaning swabs to wipe off electrical contacts and connectors, disk drive heads, and other sensitive areas. The swabs should be made of foam or synthetic chamois material that does not leave lint or dust residue. Unfortunately, proper foam or chamois cleaning swabs are more expensive than typical cotton swabs. Do not use cotton swabs because they leave cotton fibers on everything they touch. Cotton fibers are conductive in some situations and can remain on drive heads, which can scratch the disks. Foam or chamois swabs can be purchased at most electronics supply stores.

CAUTION

One item to avoid is an eraser for cleaning contacts. Many people (including me) have recommended using a soft pencil-type eraser for cleaning circuit-board or flex-cable contacts. Testing has proven this to be bad advice for several reasons. One reason is that any such abrasive wiping on electrical contacts generates friction and an ESD. This ESD can be damaging to boards and components, especially the newer low-voltage devices. These devices are especially static sensitive, and cleaning the contacts without a proper liquid solution is not recommended. Also, the eraser will wear off the gold coating on many contacts, exposing the tin contact underneath, which rapidly corrodes when exposed to air.

Some companies sell premoistened contact cleaning pads soaked in a proper contact cleaner and lubricant. These pads are safe to wipe on conductors and contacts with no likelihood of ESD damage or abrasion of the gold plating.

Lightweight Lubricants

You can use a lightweight lubricant such as WD-40 or silicone to lubricate the door mechanisms on disk drives and any other part of the system that might require clean, lightweight lubrication. Other items you can lubricate are the access doors for ports and PC Card/CardBus sockets, to provide smoother operation.

Using WD-40 or silicone instead of conventional oils is important because silicone does not gum up and collect dust and other debris. Always use the lubricant sparingly. Do not spray it anywhere near the equipment because it tends to migrate and will end up where it doesn't belong (such as on drive heads). Instead, apply a small amount to a toothpick or foam swab and dab the silicone lubricant on the components where needed.

Obtaining Tools and Accessories

You can obtain most of the cleaning chemicals and tools discussed in this chapter from an electronics supply house, or even your local Radio Shack. A company called Chemtronics specializes in chemicals for the computer and electronics industry. These and other companies that supply tools, chemicals, and other computer- and electronic-cleaning supplies are listed in the Vendor List on the CD. With all these items on hand, you should be equipped for most preventive maintenance operations.

Cleaning Procedures

Before cleaning your system, I recommend a partial disassembly. By partial I mean taking out any items that can be easily removed without using tools. This would normally include the battery, any drives in removable bays, and any PC Cards. This may also include the hard drive in some systems as well. Finally, open the access doors on the sides, back, or base of the system as well. Because of the difficulty of opening the case on most laptops, I do not recommend a complete disassembly just for the purpose of cleaning.

Once any easily accessible devices are removed and the access doors opened, use the canned air to blow out any dust from these areas.

Cleaning Connectors and Contacts

Cleaning the connectors and contacts in a system promotes reliable connections between devices. On a laptop system, the main connector you'll want to clean is that of the battery—both the contacts on the battery and the mating contacts in the system. If there is dirt or dust on the memory modules or sockets, you might want to remove the memory modules, clean the contacts, and then reinstall them. Also, if you disassemble the system and disconnect any flex-cables, it is recommended that you clean and treat the flex-cable contacts before reinserting them into their mating connectors.

To do this, first moisten the lint-free cleaning swabs in the cleaning solution. If you are using a spray, hold the swab away from the system and spray a small amount on the foam end until the solution starts to drip. Then, use the swab to wipe the connectors and sockets. You might consider using Stabilant 22a contact enhancer on these terminals to prevent corrosion and ensure a good contact. Try to avoid touching any of the gold or tin contacts with your fingers, which will coat them with oils and debris that can cause problems later. Make sure the contacts are free of all finger oils and residue.

Cleaning the LCD and Case

To clean the exterior of your laptop system use the following procedure:

Lightly moisten a soft lint-free cloth with either a 50-50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water, non-ammoniated glass cleaner, or pure water (hot water works best). Never spray liquid cleaner directly on the system, especially the display or keyboard.

Gently wipe the LCD display with the moistened cloth, and then follow with a dry cloth. Be sure the cloth is not wet enough to drip and that the LCD is completely dry when you're finished. Antistatic LCD-cleaning cloths and Kimwipes are also acceptable alternatives.

NOTE

Kimwipes are disposable 8.5- by 4.5-inch wipes, basically heavy-duty lint-free paper towels. They are a trademarked brand of Kimberly-Clark Corp., along with Kleenex, and are very popular in industrial, laboratory, and photographic use.

Cleaning the Keyboard

Keyboards are notorious for picking up dirt and garbage. If you ever look closely inside a used keyboard, you will be amazed at the junk you find in there! To keep the keyboard clean, I recommend periodically blowing out the dirt with a can of compressed air or sucking it out with a vacuum cleaner.

The best way to use the compressed air is to turn the system upside down and shoot the keyboard with a can of compressed air tilted back on an angle. This will blow out the dirt and debris that has accumulated inside the keyboard, allowing it to fall to the ground rather than into your system. If done regularly, this can prevent future problems with sticking keys or dirty keyswitches. If you are using a vacuum cleaner, you can leave the system in a normal orientation because the vacuum will suck the debris up and out without allowing it to fall deeper inside the system.

Once the dust and dirt are blown out of the keyboard, you can then clean any cosmetic dirt or stains from the keycaps. The best way to accomplish this is to wipe the keycaps with a soft cloth moistened in cleaning solution and then follow with a dry cloth.

If a particular key is stuck or making intermittent contact, you'll want to soak or spray the faulty keyswitch with contact cleaner. This cannot be done with the keyboard mounted in the system because some of the cleaner may drip inside. To prevent that, before attempting to clean the keyswitch, I recommend you remove the keyboard from the system. Consult your owner's manual (or maintenance manual if you have one) for the keyboard-removal procedure. Most laptops have keyboards that can be removed fairly easily. If you don't have a procedure for your system, use the sample procedure listed later in this chapter.

After the keyboard is removed, you can remove the keycap from the problem keyswitch and spray the cleaner into the switch. I usually do this over a sink so that the excess liquid doesn't drip onto the floor. Then replace the keycap, reinstall the keyboard, and test it to see whether the key works properly. If it doesn't, you may need to replace the keyboard with a new one. Normally you cannot replace individual keyswitches. After that, periodic vacuuming or blowing out the keyboard with compressed air will go a long way toward preventing more serious problems with sticking keys and keyswitches.

Cleaning the TrackPoint or Touchpad

The TrackPoint or touchpad pointing devices used in laptops normally require very little or no maintenance. These devices are totally sealed and relatively immune to dirt or dust. Merely blow off the area around the TrackPoint with compressed air, or wipe down the surface of the touchpad with a mild cleaning solution to remove oils and other deposits that have accumulated from handling them. If you have a TrackPoint and the cap is excessively stained or greasy, you can remove it and soak it in some cleaning solution. If the stain won't come out and/or the cap is excessively worn, it would be a good idea to simply replace the cap with a new one. Replacement TrackPoint caps are available in three different designs from a number of sources including Compu-Lock at http://www.compu-lock.com. Toshiba Accupoint caps can be obtained from any Toshiba Authorized Service Provider (ASP). To find the closest ASP, check with Toshiba at http://pcsupport.toshiba.com. Dell track stick caps can be ordered from Dell directly via its Customer Service department.

Hard Disk Maintenance

Certain preventive maintenance procedures protect your data and ensure that your hard disk works efficiently. Some of these procedures actually minimize wear and tear on your drive, which prolongs its life. Additionally, a higher level of data protection can be implemented by performing some simple commands periodically. These commands provide methods for backing up (and possibly later restoring) critical areas of the hard disk that, if damaged, would disable access to all your files.

Defragmenting Files

Over time, as you delete and save files to your hard disk, the files become fragmented. This means they are split into many noncontiguous areas on the disk. One of the best ways to protect both your hard disk and the data on it is to periodically defragment the files on the disk. This serves two purposes: One is that by ensuring that all the files are stored in contiguous sectors on the disk, head movement and drive "wear and tear" are minimized. This has the added benefit of improving the speed at which the drive retrieves files by reducing the head thrashing that occurs every time it accesses a fragmented file.

The second major benefit, and in my estimation the more important of the two, is that in the case of a disaster in which the file system is severely damaged, the data on the drive can usually be recovered much more easily if the files are contiguous. On the other hand, if the files are split up in many pieces across the drive, figuring out which pieces belong to which files is virtually impossible. For the purposes of data integrity and protection, I recommend defragmenting your hard disk drives on a monthly basis.

The three main functions in most defragmentation programs are as follows:

Defragmentation is the basic function, but most other programs also add file packing. Packing the files is optional on some programs because it usually takes additional time to perform. This function packs the files at the beginning of the disk so that all free space is consolidated at the end of the disk. This feature minimizes future file fragmentation by eliminating any empty holes on the disk. Because all free space is consolidated into one large area, any new files written to the disk are capable of being written in a contiguous manner with no fragmentation.

The last function, file sorting (sometimes called disk optimizing), is not usually necessary and is performed as an option by many defragmenting programs. This function adds a tremendous amount of time to the operation and has little or no effect on the speed at which information is accessed later. It can be somewhat beneficial for disaster-recovery purposes because you will have an idea of which files came before or after other files if a disaster occurs. Not all defragmenting programs offer file sorting, and the extra time it takes is probably not worth any benefits you will receive. Other programs can sort the order in which files are listed in directories, which is a quick-and-easy operation compared to sorting the file listing (directory entries) on the disk.

Windows 9x/Me/2000/XP includes a disk-defragmentation program with the operating system that you can use on any file system the OS supports. For older operating systems such as DOS, Windows 3.x, and some versions of NT, you must purchase a third-party defragmentation program.

The disk-defragmentation programs included with Windows are extremely slow and don't offer many options or features, so it is a good idea to purchase something better. Norton Utilities includes a disk defragmenter, as do many other utility packages. An excellent defrag program that works on all operating systems is VOPT by Golden Bow (http://www.vopt.com). It is one of the fastest and most efficient defragmenting programs on the market, and it is very inexpensive. See the Vendor List on the CD for more information on these companies and their programs.

Windows Maintenance Wizard

Windows 98 and above include a Task Scheduler program that enables you to schedule programs for automatic execution at specified times. The Maintenance Wizard walks you through the steps of scheduling regular disk defragmentations, disk error scans, and deletions of unnecessary files. You can schedule these processes to execute during nonworking hours, so regular system activities are not disturbed.

Virus Checking

Viruses are a danger to any system, and making scans with an antivirus utility a regular part of your preventive maintenance program is a good idea. Many aftermarket utility packages are available that scan for and remove viruses. No matter which of these programs you use, you should perform a scan for virus programs periodically, especially before making hard-disk backups. This helps ensure that you catch any potential virus problem before it spreads and becomes a major catastrophe. In addition, selecting an antivirus product from a vendor that provides regular updates to the program's virus signatures is important. The signatures determine which viruses the software can detect and cure, and because new viruses are constantly being introduced, these updates are essential.

TIP

Because viruses are more dangerous and numerous than ever, it is a good idea to enable the automatic update feature found in most recent antivirus programs to keep your protection up to date. Even with a dial-up connection, it takes only a few minutes a day to get downloads. If you have a broadband connection, the latest protection is downloaded in just a few moments.

Maintenance Tools

To troubleshoot and repair laptop systems properly, you need a few basic tools. If you intend to troubleshoot and repair systems professionally, you may want to purchase many more specialized tools as well. These advanced tools enable you to more accurately diagnose problems and make jobs easier and faster. Here are the basic tools that should be in every troubleshooter's toolbox:

You may want to consider the following items, although they're not required for most work:

These tools are discussed in more detail in the following subsections.

Hand Tools

When you work with laptop PCs, the tools required for nearly all service operations are simple and inexpensive. You can carry most of the required tools in a small pouch. Even a top-of-the-line "master mechanics" set fits inside a briefcase-sized container. The cost of these toolkits ranges from about $20 for a small service kit to $500 for one of the briefcase-sized deluxe kits. Compare these costs with what might be necessary for an automotive technician. An automotive service technician normally has to spend $5,000–$10,000 or more for a complete set of tools. Not only are computer tools much less expensive, but I can tell you from experience that you don't get nearly as dirty working on computers as you do working on cars.

In this section, I'll cover the tools required to perform basic, board-level service on most systems. One of the best ways to start such a set of tools is to purchase a small kit sold especially for servicing computers and then augment this with a miniature screwdriver set. Note that the small screwdriver sets are often called "jeweler's" sets, because they are commonly used in jewelry applications.

Figure 3.1 shows some of the basic tools you'll want to have at your disposal when working on laptop systems.

NOTE

Some tools aren't recommended because they are of limited use. However, they normally come with these types of kits.

Most laptop systems use numerous small Phillips or Torx screws, so those drivers are the ones you'll be using most frequently. The screwdrivers that come in some standard tool sets may be too big, so you'll want to purchase a good set of miniature screwdrivers, or a set of miniature screwdriver bits and a handle. If slotted screws are used on a system you are working on, you need to be very careful because it is easy for the flat-blade screwdriver head to slip off and possibly damage the system.

CAUTION

When you're working in a cramped environment, such as the inside of a laptop, screwdrivers with magnetic tips can be a real convenience, especially for retrieving that screw you dropped into the case, as well as for holding a screw on the tip of the tool when inserting it into the threaded hole. However, although I have used these types of screwdrivers many times with no problems, you should be aware of the damage a magnetic field can cause to magnetic storage devices such as floppy disks. Laying the screwdriver down on or near a floppy can damage the data on the disk. Fortunately, floppy disks aren't used that much anymore. Hard drives are shielded by a metal case; CD/DVD drives are not affected because they work optically; and memory and other chips are not affected by magnetic fields (unless they are magnitudes stronger than what you'll see in a hand tool).

Chip-extraction tools, shown in Figure 3.2, are rarely needed to remove chips these days because memory chips are mounted on SIMMs or DIMMs, and processors use zero insertion force (ZIF) sockets (which are found in Pentium M and Pentium 4M systems) or other user-friendly connectors. The ZIF socket has a lever or screw lock that, when opened, releases the grip on the pins of the processor, enabling you to easily lift it out with your fingers.

Figure 3.1Figure 3.1 The basic tools you need to work on a laptop are shown here, although you might also need to obtain sets of smaller-sized flat-blade and Phillips screwdrivers, and a set of small Torx drivers or Torx bits.

That said, these tools can still be handy in current systems when used to pull out keyboard keys (even from integrated keyboards on a notebook system). In fact, for this role it works quite well. By placing the tool over a keycap on a keyboard and squeezing the tool so the hooks grab under the keycap on opposite sides, you can cleanly and effectively remove the keycap from the keyboard without damage. This works much better than trying to pry the caps off with a screwdriver, which often results in damaging them or sending them flying across the room.

Although I prefer magnetic tipped screwdrivers, the tweezers or parts grabber can be used to hold any small screws or jumper blocks that are difficult to hold in your hand. The parts grabber, shown in Figure 3.3, is especially useful when starting screws or when trying to retrieve one that has fallen into a nook or cranny inside the system. If you have dropped a screw inside and can't see it, you might try turning the system upside down and gently shaking it until the screw falls out.

Finally, the Torx driver is a star-shaped driver that matches the special screws found in most systems (see Figure 3.4). Torx screws are vastly superior to other types of screws for computers because they offer greater grip, and the Torx driver is much less likely to slip. The most common cause of new circuit board failures is due to people using slotted screwdrivers and slipping off of the screw head, scratching (and damaging) the motherboard. I never allow slotted screws or a standard flat-bladed screwdriver anywhere near the interior of my systems. You also can purchase tamperproof Torx drivers that can remove Torx screws with the tamper-resistant pin in the center of the screw. A tamperproof Torx driver has a hole drilled in it to allow clearance for the pin. Torx drivers come in a number of sizes, the most common being the T-10 and T-15. However, many laptops use smaller sizes from T-9 down through T-5. It is a good idea to have a set of miniature Torx drivers on hand when working on laptop systems.

Figure 3.2Figure 3.2 The chip extractor (left) was originally designed to remove individual RAM or ROM chips from a socket. An extractor such as the one on the right is used for extracting socketed processors—if the processor does not use a ZIF socket.

Figure 3.3Figure 3.3 The parts grabber has three small metal prongs that can be extended to grab a part.

Figure 3.4Figure 3.4 A Torx driver and bit.

Although a set of basic tools is useful, you should supplement it with some additional tools, such as the following:

Safety

Before you begin working on a system, you should follow certain safety procedures. Some are to protect you; others are to protect the system you are working on.

From a personal safety point of view, there really isn't that much danger in working on a laptop computer. Even if it is open with the power on, computers run on 20 volts or less internally, meaning there are no dangerous voltages present that are life threatening.

Before working on a laptop computer, you should unplug it from the wall. This is not really to protect you so much as it is to protect the system. Modern systems are always partially running—that is, as long as they are plugged in. Even if a system is off, standby voltages are still present. To prevent damage, it is recommended that the system be completely unplugged and the main power battery removed. If you accidentally turn the system all the way on, and plug in or remove a card or memory module, you can fry the card, module, or even the motherboard.

ESD Protection Tools

Electrostatic discharge (ESD) protection is another issue. While working on a PC, you should wear an ESD wrist strap, which is clipped to the chassis of the machine (see Figure 3.5). This will ensure that you and the system remain at the same electrical potential and will prevent static electricity from damaging the system as you touch it. Some people feel that the system should be plugged in to provide an earth ground. Working on any system that is plugged in is not a good idea at all, as previously mentioned. No "earth" ground is necessary; all that is important is that you and the system remain at the same electrical potential, which is accomplished via the strap. Another issue for personal safety is to use a commercially available wrist strap rather than making your own. Commercially made wrist straps feature an internal 1 Meg ohm resistor designed to protect you. The resistor will ensure that you are not the best path to ground should you touch any "hot" wire.

When you remove components from the system, they should be placed on a special conductive antistatic mat, which is also a part of any good ESD protection kit. The mat will also be connected via a wire and clip to the system chassis. Any components removed from the system, especially items such as the processor, motherboard, adapter cards, and disk drives, should be placed on the mat. The connection between you, the mat, and the chassis will prevent any static discharges from damaging the components.

NOTE

It is possible (but not recommended) to work without an ESD protection kit if you're disciplined and careful about working on systems. If you don't have an ESD kit available, you can discharge yourself by touching any exposed metal on the chassis or case. In a laptop are exposed metal brackets and screws you could touch, and in most cases, even if the entire chassis is plastic, it will be coated with metallic paint on the inside, which acts as a shield for electromagnetic interference.

Again, also be sure that any system you are working on is unplugged. Many systems today continue to feed power to the motherboard through the motherboard power connection whenever the computer is plugged in, even when the power switch is turned off. Working inside a laptop that is still connected to a power source can be very dangerous.

Figure 3.5Figure 3.5 A typical ESD wrist strap, clip the end to a metallic surface in the chassis.

The ESD kits, as well as all the other tools (and much more), are available from a variety of tool vendors. Specialized Products Company and Jensen Tools are two of the most popular vendors of computer and electronic tools and service equipment. Their catalogs show an extensive selection of very-high-quality tools. (These companies and several others are listed in the Vendor List on the CD.) With a simple set of hand tools, you will be equipped for nearly every computer repair or installation situation. The total cost of these tools should be less than $150, which is not much considering the capabilities they provide.

A Word About Hardware

This section discusses some problems you might encounter with the hardware (screws, nuts, bolts, and so on) used in assembling a system.

Types of Hardware

One of the biggest aggravations you encounter in dealing with various systems is the different hardware types and designs that hold the units together.

Laptop and portable systems are notorious for using many more screws than desktop systems in their assembly, and the screws are often of several different types. For example, a typical system like the IBM ThinkPad R40 is assembled with more than 85 screws of eight different types! Most systems use a variety of small Phillips, Torx, tamperproof Torx, and hex-head screws. A Torx screw has a star-shaped hole driven by the correct-size Torx driver. These drivers carry size designations from T-5 through T-40, although only sizes T-5 through T-10 are commonly used in laptops.

A variation on the Torx screw is the tamperproof Torx screw found in some systems. These screws are identical to the regular Torx screws, except that a pin sticks up from the middle of the star-shape hole in the screw. This pin prevents the standard Torx driver from entering the hole to grip the screw; a special tamperproof driver with a corresponding hole for the pin is required.

Many manufacturers also use the more standard slotted-head and Phillips-head screws. Slotted-head screws should almost never be used in a computer, because it is too easy for the screwdriver to slip, thus damaging a board. Using tools on these screws is relatively easy, but tools do not grip these fasteners as well as they do hexagonal head and Torx screws. In addition, the heads can be stripped more easily than the other types. Extremely cheap versions tend to lose bits of metal as they're turned with a driver, and the metal bits can fall onto the motherboard. Stay away from cheap fasteners whenever possible; the headaches of dealing with stripped screws aren't worth it.

English Versus Metric

Another area of aggravation with hardware is the fact that two types of thread systems exist: English and metric. Most laptop systems use metric fasteners.

TIP

Before you discard an obsolete computer, remove the screws and other reusable parts, such as cover plates, jumper blocks, and so on. Label the bag or container with the name and model of the computer to help you more easily determine where else you can use the parts later.

CAUTION

Some screws in a system can be length-critical, especially screws used to retain hard disk drives. You can destroy some hard disks by using a mounting screw that's too long; the screw can puncture or dent the sealed disk chamber when you install the drive and fully tighten the screw. When you install a new drive in a system, always make a trial fit of the hardware to see how far the screws can be inserted into the drive before they interfere with its internal components. When in doubt, the drive manufacturer's OEM documentation will tell you precisely which screws are required and how long they should be. Most drives sold at retail include correct-length mounting screws, but OEM drives usually don't include screws or other hardware.

Test Equipment

In some cases, you must use specialized devices to test a system board or component. This test equipment is not expensive or difficult to use, but it can add much to your troubleshooting abilities.

Electrical Testing Equipment

I consider a voltmeter to be required gear for proper system testing. A multimeter can serve many purposes, including checking for voltage signals at various points in a system, testing the output of the power supply, and checking for continuity in a circuit or cable. An outlet tester is an invaluable accessory that can check the electrical outlet for proper wiring. This capability is useful if you believe the problem lies outside the computer system.

Loopback Connectors (Wrap Plugs)

For diagnosing serial- and parallel-port problems, you need loopback connectors (also called wrap plugs), which are used to circulate, or wrap, signals (see Figure 3.6). The plugs enable the serial or parallel port to send data to itself for diagnostic purposes.

Figure 3.6Figure 3.6 Typical wrap plugs, including 25-pin and 9-pin serial and 25-pin parallel versions.

Various types of loopback connectors are available. To accommodate all the ports you might encounter, you need one for the 9-pin serial port and one for the 25-pin parallel port. It is highly unlikely that a laptop will have a 25-pin serial port, although these ports are sometimes found on docking stations or port replicators. Many companies, including IBM, sell the plugs separately, but be aware that you also need diagnostic software that can use them. Some diagnostic software products, such as Micro 2000's Micro-Scope, include loopback connectors with the product, or you can purchase them as an option for about $30 a set. Note that there are some variations on how loopback connectors can be made, and not all versions work properly with all diagnostic software. It is best to use the loopback connectors recommended by the diagnostic software you will be using.

IBM sells a special combination plug that includes all three possible connector types in one compact unit. The device costs about the same as a normal set of wrap plugs. If you're handy, you can even make your own wrap plugs for testing. I include wiring diagrams for the three types of wrap plugs in Chapter 8, "Expansion Buses." In that chapter, you also will find a detailed discussion of serial and parallel ports.

Besides simple loopback connectors, you also might want to have a breakout box for your toolkit. A breakout box is a DB25 connector device that enables you to make custom temporary cables or even to monitor signals on a cable. For most serial or parallel port troubleshooting uses, a "mini" breakout box works well and is inexpensive.

Meters

Some troubleshooting procedures require that you measure voltage and resistance. You take these measurements by using a handheld digital multimeter (DMM). The meter can be an analog device (using an actual meter) or a digital-readout device. The DMM has a pair of wires called test leads or probes. The test leads make the connections so that you can take readings. Depending on the meter's setting, the probes measure electrical resistance, direct-current (DC) voltage, or alternating-current (AC) voltage. Figure 3.7 shows a typical DMM being used to test the AC adapter on a typical laptop. In this particular example, I am testing an AC adapter that is rated for 15V output. As you can see, the DMM is reading 15.30V. The normal tolerance for voltage readings is plus or minus 5%, which in this case would be 14.25V through 15.75V. Therefore, the reading is well within that specification, meaning the adapter checks out as good.

Most newer meters are auto-ranging, which means they automatically select the appropriate measurement range when you take a reading. All you have to do is set the meter properly to read DC volts or AC volts. All readings will normally be DC. The only time you'll measure AC voltage is when checking wall outlets.

In some meters, each measurement setting has several ranges of operation. DC voltage, for example, usually can be read in several scales, to a maximum of 200 millivolts (mV), 2V, 20V, 200V, and 1,000V. Because computers use +3.3V, +5V, and +12V for internal operations, and up to 20V for things like batteries and AC adapters, you should use the 20V scale for making your measurements. Making these measurements on the 200mV or 2V scale could "peg the meter" and possibly damage it because the voltage would be much higher than expected. Using the 200V or 1,000V scale works, but the readings at 5V and 12V are so small in proportion to the maximum that accuracy is low.

Figure 3.7Figure 3.7 A typical digital multimeter tests a laptop AC adapter.

If you are taking a measurement and are unsure of the actual voltage, start at the highest scale and work your way down. Most of the better meters have an auto-ranging capability—the meter automatically selects the best range for any measurement. This type of meter is much easier to operate. You simply set the meter to the type of reading you want, such as DC volts, and attach the probes to the signal source. The meter selects the correct voltage range and displays the value. Because of their design, these types of meters always have a digital display rather than a meter needle.

CAUTION

Whenever you are using a multimeter to test any voltage that could potentially be 50V or above (such as AC wall socket voltage), always use one hand to do the testing, not two. Either clip one lead to one of the sources and probe with the other or hold both leads in one hand.

If you hold a lead in each hand and accidentally slip, you can very easily become a circuit, allowing power to conduct or flow through you. When power flows from arm to arm, the path of the current is directly across the heart. The heart muscle tends to quit working when subjected to high voltages. It's funny that way.

I prefer the small digital meters; you can buy them for only slightly more than the analog style, and they're extremely accurate and much safer for digital circuits. Some of these meters are not much bigger than a cassette tape; they fit in a shirt pocket. Radio Shack sells a good unit in the $25 price range; the meter (refer to Figure 3.7) is a half-inch thick, weighs 3 1/2 ounces, and is digital and autoranging, as well. This type of meter works well for most, if not all, computer troubleshooting and test uses.

CAUTION

You should be aware that many analog meters can be dangerous to digital circuits. Larger analog meters often use a 9V battery to power the meter for resistance measurements. If you use this type of meter to measure resistance on some digital circuits, you can damage the electronics because you essentially are injecting 9V into the circuit. The digital meters universally run on 3V–5V or less.

Logic Probes and Logic Pulsers

A logic probe can be useful for diagnosing problems in digital circuits (see Figure 3.8). In a digital circuit, a signal is represented as either high (+5V) or low (0V). Because these signals are present for only a short time (measured in millionths of a second) or oscillate (switch on and off) rapidly, a simple voltmeter is useless. A logic probe is designed to display these signal conditions easily.

Figure 3.8Figure 3.8 A typical logic probe.

Logic probes are especially useful for troubleshooting a dead system. By using the probe, you can determine whether the basic clock circuitry is operating and whether other signals necessary for system operation are present. In some cases, a probe can help you cross-check the signals at each pin on an integrated circuit chip. You can compare the signals present at each pin with the signals a known-good chip of the same type would show—a comparison that is helpful in isolating a failed component. Logic probes also can be useful for troubleshooting some disk drive problems by enabling you to test the signals present on the interface cable or drive-logic board.

A companion tool to the probe is the logic pulser, which is designed to test circuit reaction by delivering a logical high (+5V) pulse into a circuit, usually lasting from 1 1/2 to 10 millionths of a second. Compare the reaction with that of a known-functional circuit. This type of device normally is used much less frequently than a logic probe, but in some cases it can be helpful for testing a circuit.

Outlet Testers

Outlet testers are very useful test tools. These simple, inexpensive devices, sold in hardware stores, test electrical outlets. You simply plug in the device, and three LEDs light up in various combinations, indicating whether the outlet is wired correctly (see Figure 3.9).

Figure 3.9Figure 3.9 A typical outlet tester.

Although you might think that badly wired outlets would be a rare problem, I have seen a large number of installations in which the outlets were wired incorrectly. Most of the time, the problem is in the ground wire. An improperly wired outlet can result in unstable system operation, such as random parity checks and lockups. With an improper ground circuit, currents can begin flowing on the electrical ground circuits in the system. Because the system uses the voltage on the ground circuits as a comparative signal to determine whether bits are 0 or 1, a floating ground can cause data errors in the system.

CAUTION

Even if you use a surge protector, it will not protect your system from an improperly wired outlet. Therefore, you still should use an outlet tester to ensure your outlet is computer friendly.

Once, while running one of my PC troubleshooting seminars, I used a system that I literally could not approach without locking it up. Whenever I walked past the system, the electrostatic field generated by my body interfered with the system and the PC locked up, displaying a parity-check error message. The problem was that the hotel at which I was giving the seminar was very old and had no grounded outlets in the room. The only way I could prevent the system from locking up was to run the class in my stocking feet because my leather-soled shoes were generating the static charge.

Other symptoms of bad ground wiring in electrical outlets are continual electrical shocks when you touch the case or chassis of the system. These shocks indicate that voltages are flowing where they should not be. This problem also can be caused by bad or improper grounds within the system. By using the simple outlet tester, you can quickly determine whether the outlet is at fault.

If you just walk up to a system and receive an initial shock, it's probably only static electricity. Touch the chassis again without moving your feet. If you receive another shock, something is very wrong. In this case, the ground wire actually has voltage applied to it. You should have a professional electrician check the outlet immediately.

If you don't like being a human rat in an electrical experiment, you can test the outlets with your multimeter. First, remember to hold both leads in one hand. Test from one blade hole to another. This should read between 110V and 125V, depending on the electrical service in the area. Then, check from each blade to the ground (the round hole). One blade hole, the smaller one, should show a voltage almost identical to the one you got from the blade hole–to–blade hole test. The larger blade hole when measured to ground should show less than 0.5V.

Because ground and neutral are supposed to be tied together at the electrical panel, a large difference in these readings indicates that they are not tied together. However, small differences can be accounted for by current from other outlets down the line flowing on the neutral, when there isn't any on the ground.

If you don't get the results you expect, call an electrician to test the outlets for you. More weird computer problems are caused by improper grounding and other power problems than people like to believe.

Special Tools for the Enthusiast

All the tools described so far are commonly used by most technicians. However, a few additional tools do exist that a true computer enthusiast might want to have.

Electric Screwdriver

Perhaps the most useful tool I use is an electric screwdriver. It enables me to disassemble and reassemble a computer in record time and makes the job not only faster but easier as well. I like the type with a clutch you can use to set how tight it will make the screws before slipping; such a clutch makes it even faster to use. If you use the driver frequently, it makes sense to use the type with replaceable, rechargeable batteries, so when one battery dies you can quickly replace it with a fresh one.

CAUTION

Note that using an electric screwdriver when installing circuit boards can be dangerous because the bit can easily slip off the screw and damage the board. A telltale series of swirling scratches near the screw holes on the board can be the result, for which most manufacturers rightfully deny a warranty claim. Be especially careful when using an electric screwdriver on Phillips-head screws because when the screw is either fully loose or fully tight, an electric screwdriver tip will continue rotating and tend to walk out of the screw. Torx-head or hex-head screws are less likely to allow this to happen, but care should be taken when using an electric screwdriver on them as well.

With the electric screwdriver, I recommend getting a complete set of English and metric nut driver tips as well as various sizes of Torx, flat-head, and Phillips-head screwdriver tips.

Tamperproof Torx Bits

As mentioned earlier, many laptop systems as well as devices such as power supplies and monitors are held together with tamperproof Torx screws. Tamperproof Torx driver sets are available from any good electronics tool supplier.

Temperature Probe

Determining the interior temperature of a laptop is often useful when diagnosing whether heat-related issues are causing problems. This requires some way of measuring the temperature inside the unit as well as the ambient temperature outside the system. The simplest and best tools I've found for the job are the digital thermometers sold at most auto parts stores for automobile use. They are designed to read the temperature inside and outside the car and normally come with an internal sensor, as well as one at the end of a length of wire.

With this type of probe, you can run the wired sensor inside the case (if it is metal, make sure it does not directly touch any exposed circuits where it might cause a short) with the wires slipped through a crack in the case or out one of the drive bays. Another option without opening the system is to clip the sensor to the exhaust vents to measure the air temperature exiting the system. Then, with the system running, you can take the internal temperature as well as read the room's ambient temperature. Many chips in the system can run at extremely high temperatures. For example, the Pentium 4M is rated for a maximum die temperature of 100°C (212°F) and will automatically shut down if it reaches 135°C (275°F)! However the internal air temperature should be much less. Normally, internal air temperature should be 113°F (45°C) or less. If your system is running above that temperature, the chips will be running much hotter, and problems can be expected. Probing the temperature with a device such as this enables you to determine whether overheating might be the cause of lockups or other problems you may be having.

Infrared Thermometer

Another useful temperature tool is a noncontact infrared (IR) thermometer, which is a special type of sensor that can measure the temperature of an object without physically touching it (see Figure 3.10). You can take the temperature reading of an object in seconds by merely pointing the handheld device at the object you want to measure and pulling a trigger.

An IR thermometer works by capturing the infrared energy naturally emitted from all objects warmer than absolute zero (0° Kelvin or –459°F). Infrared energy is a part of the electromagnetic spectrum with a frequency below that of visible light, which means it is invisible to the human eye. Infrared wavelengths are between 0.7 microns and 1000 microns (millionths of a meter), although infrared thermometers typically measure radiation in the range 0.7–14 microns.

Because IR thermometers can measure the temperature of objects without touching them, they are ideal for measuring component temperatures directly—especially the temperature of the CPU heatsink. Unfortunately, most laptops are not designed to be powered on while partially disassembled, and in some cases the normal airflow will be disrupted enough to cause overheating problems. Still, you can use the IR thermometer to measure any hot spots on the surface of the system. By merely pointing the device at the place you wish to measure and pulling the trigger, you can get a very accurate measurement in about 1 second. To enable more accuracy in positioning, many IR thermometers incorporate a laser pointer, which is used to aim the device.

IR thermometers are designed to measure IR radiation from a device; they can't be used to measure air temperature. The sensors are specifically designed so that the air between the sensor and target does not affect the temperature measurement.

Figure 3.10Figure 3.10 A noncontact infrared thermometer.

Although several IR thermometers are available on the market, I use and recommend the Raytek (http://www.raytek.com) MiniTemp series, which consists of the MT2 and MT4. Both units are identical, but the MT4 includes a laser pointer for aiming. The MT2 and MT4 are capable of measuring temperatures between 0° and 500°F (–18°–260°C) in one half of a second with an accuracy of about plus or minus 3°F (2°C). They cost $80–$100 and are available from NAPA Auto Parts stores (these devices have many uses in automotive testing as well) and other tool outlets.

Upgrading and Repairing Portables

From a technical standpoint, many of the components used in portable systems are similar to those in desktop computers. However, in many ways they are also different. Portable or laptop systems are in many ways less upgradable or repairable than desktop systems, mainly because of the lack of standard form factors for cases/chassis, motherboards, keyboards, displays, and even batteries. They are also highly integrated, meaning functions that might be replaceable adapter cards in a desktop system (such as video, for example) are built in to the motherboard of a laptop system. However, despite these challenges, in some ways a laptop system can actually be easier to upgrade than a desktop because laptops often use modular bay storage devices that eliminate the need for ribbon cables, mounting rails, and separate electrical connections. Memory, hard disks, and mini-PCI slots are often accessible through easy-to-open access panels, making upgrades of these devices easy without disassembling the system. Therefore, common tasks such as adding memory, upgrading a hard drive, and upgrading an optical drive (on models with modular drive bays) can often be accomplished in seconds. Adding other interfaces, such as Ethernet, 802.11a/b/g Wi-Fi wireless, USB 2.0, and IEEE 1394 (FireWire/i.LINK), can be easily accomplished via plug-in PC Cards.

The problem with replacing other components in portables is that the hardware tends to be much less generic than it is in desktops. The exceptions are for PC Cards (which are interchangeable by definition), memory (on newer systems), and in some cases, hard drives. Purchasing a component that is not specifically intended for use in your exact system model can often be risky.

In some cases, these compatibility problems are a matter of simple logistics. Portable system manufacturers jam a great deal of machinery into a very small case, and sometimes a new device just will not fit in the space left by the old one. This is particularly true of devices that must be accessible from the outside of the case, such as CD-ROM and floppy drives. Keyboards and monitors, the most easily replaceable of desktop components, are so completely integrated into the case of a laptop system that they can normally only be replaced with specific parts from the original manufacturer.

In other cases, your upgrade path might be deliberately limited by the options available in the system BIOS. For example, depending on the BIOS date or revision, you might be limited in drive capacity, the same as desktop systems. Fortunately, most use a flash ROM BIOS that can easily be updated—that is, if the system manufacturer makes such updates available. When shopping for a portable system, you should check with the manufacturer to see whether it has a support Web site with BIOS updates, drivers, and any accessory or utility programs necessary to support and maintain the system. A lack of BIOS or driver updates can prevent you from moving to a newer operating system in the future, or at least make such a move difficult.

Most of the time, components for portable systems are sold by referencing the system model number, even when third parties are involved. If you look through a catalog for desktop memory, for example, you see parts listed generically by attributes such as chip speed, form factor, and parity/nonparity. The memory listings for portable systems, on the other hand, most likely consist of a series of systems manufacturers' names and model numbers, plus the amount of memory in the module. This has improved somewhat, with most modern laptops using industry-standard SO-DIMMs (small outline dual inline memory modules) instead of proprietary modules.

There are always exceptions to the rule, of course. However, purchasing compatible components that fit together properly is certainly more of a challenge for a portable system than it is for a desktop system. Table 3.3 explains which laptop system components can be upgraded.

Table 3.3 Upgradable Laptop System Components

Component

Upgradable

Notes

Motherboard

No

Nonstandard form factors prevent internal upgrades.

CPU

Yes

Installing a faster CPU of the same type and model is usually possible; however, there can be limitations due to voltage, thermal, and/or BIOS support issues, and clock speed increases will normally be small.

Memory

Yes

Normally only one or two SIMM/DIMM sockets are available. You may need to remove lower-capacity existing modules to upgrade.

Video adapter/chipset

No

Video is integrated into a nonupgradable motherboard.

Video display

No1

Nonstandard form factors and connections prevent internal upgrades.

Keyboard/pointing device

No2

Nonstandard form factors and connections prevent internal upgrades.

Hard disk

Yes

Older systems might not have BIOS support for drives larger than 8.4GB. Many systems are limited to 9.5mm- or 12.5mm-thick drives. Drive trays or caddies are often required for installation.

Removable-media drives (floppy, CD/DVD, CD-RW/DVD+-RW)

Yes

Install these internally via modular bays or use external USB or IEEE 1394 (FireWire/i.LINK) drives.

USB, IEEE 1394 (FireWire/i.LINK), serial (RS-232), parallel (IEEE 1284), SCSI, and so on

Yes

Install these via PC Card or CardBus adapters.

10/100/1000Mbps Ethernet LAN

Yes

Install this via a PC Card or CardBus adapters.

Wireless 802.11a/b/g (Wi-Fi), Bluetooth

Yes

Install these via PC Card, CardBus, mini-PCI (internal) cards, or Modem Daughter Cards (MDCs). Internal cards may require preinstalled antennas.

1. It is normally possible to connect an external display and use it in lieu of or in addition to the existing internal display.

2. It is normally possible to connect an external keyboard and/or pointing device to use in lieu of or in addition to the existing internal devices.

System Disassembly

Most laptop systems are more difficult to disassemble than desktop systems. Laptop systems typically have many more screws than desktops, and the screws come in a number of different sizes and styles, and they are often hidden under stickers or covers. The chassis covers often feature thin plastic parts that interlock and can be tricky to separate without damage. Unlike desktop systems, which are substantially similar internally, laptop systems can vary greatly from manufacturer to manufacturer, and even from model to model. For this reason, it really helps to have specific documentation on disassembly/reassembly from the system manufacturer.

System Components

Figure 3.11 shows the components that make up a typical modern laptop system, such as the IBM ThinkPad R40. Note that most modern manufacturers refer to all their laptop models as notebooks. The terms laptop and notebook mean the same thing with respect to portable computers, and these terms can be used interchangeably.

Documentation is extremely important for laptop systems, due to their inherently proprietary nature. One reason I like the IBM ThinkPad systems is that IBM makes the hardware maintenance manuals, service and troubleshooting guides, and technical reference and user manuals for all IBM systems available on its Web site. These documents include complete disassembly and reassembly instructions and a complete parts list, including detailed exploded diagrams and part numbers. IBM offers unparalleled documentation for its systems, which makes working on them a relative pleasure. The detailed service manuals also provide the information needed to accomplish component replacements and upgrades, which would be daunting on other systems lacking this information.

Dell is another standout, providing detailed service manuals available for download from its Web site for all its laptop systems. In fact, the unfortunate reality is that currently the only laptop system manufacturers that do make service manuals available to end users are IBM and Dell! That is perhaps one of the biggest reasons that those two manufacturers are among my favorites when it comes to laptops.

Toshiba used to make its service manuals available for purchase in printed form, but in the last few years Toshiba has changed its policy and its service manuals are now available to Toshiba-authorized dealers only. The good thing is that in most cases, if you purchase a repair or replacement part from one of the premier Toshiba Authorized Service Providers (ASPs), such as MicroSolutions http://www.micsol.com, the ASP will include copies of the relevant pages from the service manual describing in detail the procedure for removing the old part and installing the new one in the system.

Figure 3.11Figure 3.11 The components found in a typical laptop system—the ThinkPad R40 in this example.

LCD:

  1. LCD bezel/rear cover

  2. LCD hinge/bracket with antenna

  3. LCD cable

  4. Wi-Fi antenna

  5. LCD inverter/LED card

  6. LCD panel

System:

  1. Keyboard bezel middle cover

  2. Keyboard bezel upper case

  3. Optical drive (UltraBay Plus CD/DVD)

  4. UltraBay Plus guide rail

  5. Microphone cable

  6. Communications Daughter Card (CDC) Bluetooth/modem

  7. I/O bracket

  8. Mini-PCI access door

  9. Main battery (Li-ion)

  10. Backup (CMOS) battery

  11. DIMM access door

  12. Speakers

  13. Lower case

  14. Bluetooth antenna

  15. DDR SO-DIMM (double data rate small outline dual inline memory module)

  16. 802.11a/b Wi-Fi wireless card

  17. Motherboard

  18. CPU (Pentium M processor)

  19. Hard disk guide rails

  20. PC Card/CardBus slot

  21. CPU heatsink/fan

  22. Hard disk drive with tray

  23. Hard disk drive access cover

  24. Keyboard

  25. TrackPoint cap

  26. Hinge cap

  1. Communications Daughter Card (CDC) plate

  2. Modem cable

  3. Motherboard chipset heatsink

  4. Video chipset heatsink

Most if not all other laptop system manufacturers do not provide service manuals for their systems, which I consider to be a major drawback. Virtually all of them do provide user manuals, which sometimes include simple troubleshooting or maintenance procedures, but these are not at the same level of a true service manual. Before purchasing a laptop system, I highly recommend you check to see what type of documentation is available. I normally make a point to avoid any systems for which I can't get detailed service or technical information from the manufacturer, because those manuals makes future repairs and upgrades much easier.

In searching for documentation and spare parts for a system, I usually try to go direct to the manufacturer. This has led me to discover an interesting "secret" of the laptop business that isn't often discussed—the fact that most of the well-known laptop brands you may be familiar with are actually built by a handful of manufacturers located in Taiwan, including companies such as Quanta (http://www.quantatw.com), Compal (http://www.compal.com), Acer (global.acer.com), and others. These companies don't sell systems under their own names; instead, they design and manufacture them for other companies under contract. In fact, according to the Market Intelligence Center (MIC), Quanta and Compal were the number-one and number-two (respectively) laptop manufacturers in the world in 2002, followed by Toshiba and IBM. For me, that was a bit of a shock because Toshiba had been the largest laptop manufacturer every year since laptops were invented, until both Quanta and Compal outsold Toshiba in 2001. Quanta makes laptops for Dell, HP, Compaq, eMachines, Best Buy, and Apple, among many other companies. Dell also purchases laptops from Compal and Acer (it isn't tied to one supplier). Now you know why Dell's different model lines look so different; they were designed and made by different companies. The contract manufacturing by companies such as Quanta and Compal is the main reason you see so many different brands of laptop systems that seem to look identical to each other. Which stands to reason because they were actually made by the same company, one whose name can't be found on any of its systems. One potential drawback of this is that it is difficult for some companies to support the systems they sell, because in reality they didn't make them and may not have direct access to the parts and manufacturing.

NOTE

If you can figure out who really made your system and locate that company on the Web, in some cases you'll find more detailed information or can get newer drivers and BIOS updates direct from that manufacturer. If you don't know the actual manufacturer of your system and the vendor doesn't provide support, you may be in for difficulty in tracking down repairs and spare parts for your system.

Recording Physical Configuration

While you are disassembling a laptop system, you should record the settings and configurations of each component, including any jumper and switch settings, ribbon or flex-cable orientations and placement, ground-wire locations, Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna locations, and even adapter board placement. Keep a notepad handy for recording these items. When it comes time to reassemble the system, these notes will prove valuable in helping you get everything back together correctly. It is also a good idea to use a digital camera to take close-up pictures of various parts of the system before you remove them. These pictures will be very helpful as a reference during reassembly.

You should mark or record what each cable was plugged into and its proper orientation. Ribbon and flex-cables usually have an odd-colored (red, green, blue, or black) wire at one end that indicates pin 1. There might also be a mark on the connector, such as a triangle or even the number 1. The devices the cables are plugged into are also marked in some way to indicate the orientation of pin 1. Often, a dot appears next to the pin-1 side of the connector, or a 1 or other mark might appear.

Although cable orientation and placement seem to be very simple, we rarely get through one of my computer troubleshooting seminars without at least some people having cable-connection problems. Fortunately, in most cases (except for power cables), plugging any of the ribbon or flex-cables inside the system backward rarely causes any permanent damage.

However, plugging in or installing the CMOS battery backward can damage the CMOS chip, which usually is soldered onto the motherboard; in such a case, the motherboard must be replaced.

System Disassembly

Although laptop systems aren't as standardized as most desktop systems with respect to motherboard form factors and such, there is still a lot of commonality among modern laptop systems. They are a bit trickier to disassemble, upgrade or repair, and then reassemble, but it's nothing you can't handle if you use some common sense, experience, and a little care. Of course, it helps to have a service or maintenance manual with detailed step-by-step procedures, but unfortunately, as mentioned earlier, that type of documentation is normally available for IBM and Dell systems, but not from most other manufacturers.

As an example of a typically constructed laptop system, I'm going to go through the steps required to disassemble an IBM ThinkPad R40. This is a state-of-the-art Pentium M processor system that uses Intel's Centrino mobile technology. You've already seen an exploded diagram of the system showing all the components (refer to Figure 3.11); now you'll see how a system like this is assembled. We'll start with the removable devices first and then break out the tools for the harder-to-reach internal components.

TIP

As another point of reference, the video included with this book shows the disassembly of a ThinkPad 760, which is another typical laptop, but different than the R40 shown here. I recommend you review the steps shown here as well as in the video to get an idea of how two different laptops are taken apart and reassembled. That way, even if you don't have a factory service manual for your own system, you should be able to see by example how it can be disassembled and reassembled.

Main Battery

Let's start with the main battery. To remove the battery, flip the system over, pull the battery latch away from the battery with your index finger, and lift the battery out (see Figure 3.12).

Figure 3.12Figure 3.12 Removing the main battery.

Callouts:

1 Slide the battery latch to the side.
2 Remove the main battery.

UltraBay Plus Devices

Modular bays are used in many modern laptop systems. This system has what is called an UltraBay Plus bay on the right side. It allows for easy swapping in and out of many modular bay devices, including the following:

All these devices are removed and installed in the same manner. To remove a modular bay device, slide the latch to the side, causing a lever to pop out. Grasp the lever and slide the device out of the bay (see Figure 3.13).

Figure 3.13Figure 3.13 Removing a modular bay device.

Callouts

1 Release the modular bay latch.
2 Grasp the modular bay lever.
3 Pull out the modular bay device.

Hard Disk

The hard disk in most modern laptop systems is a 2.5-inch form factor unit that is normally 9.5mm thick. To remove the drive, take out the drive cover retainer screw locking the drive cover, as shown in Figure 3.14.

Figure 3.14Figure 3.14 Removing the hard disk drive cover retainer.

Callout:

1 Remove the drive cover retainer screw.

Now grasp the cover and slide the drive and cover out of the system together. Then you can disengage the cover from the drive by bending the cover latches sideways and pulling the cover away from the drive (see Figure 3.15).

Figure 3.15Figure 3.15 Removing the hard disk drive.

Callout:

2 Slide out the drive.

Memory Modules (SO-DIMMs)

Most modern laptop systems use memory in 200-pin DDR (double data rate) SO-DIMM (small-outline dual inline memory module) form. These are the equivalent of the larger 184-pin DDR DIMMs (dual inline memory modules) used in desktop systems. To remove the SO-DIMMs, merely take out the screws holding the memory-access door (on the bottom of the system) in place and then take off the door. Next, bend the latches holding the SO-DIMMs in place to the side and lift these modules up out of the system, as shown in Figure 3.16.

Mini-PCI Card

Laptop system manufacturers usually put wireless networking on mini-PCI cards so they can sell systems with and without this option. If you purchased a system that didn't come with built-in wireless networking, you may be able to install a mini-PCI 802.11a/b Wi-Fi card to add that capability to your system. To remove a mini-PCI card, first remove the screws holding the access door in place, then take out the door (see Figure 3.17).

Once the card is exposed, carefully disconnect any antennas or other wires that may be attached to the card. Mini-PCI cards are installed in exactly the same way as SO-DIMMs. To remove the card, bend the retainer latches to the side and then lift and pull the card up out of the slot (see Figure 3.18).

Figure 3.16Figure 3.16 Removing the memory modules.

Callouts:

1 Bend the SO-DIMM retainerlatches to the side.
2 Remove the SO-DIMMs.

Figure 3.17Figure 3.17 Removing the mini-PCI access door.

Callouts:

1a Phillips screw.
1b Tamperproof Torx screw.
2 Remove the mini-PCI access door.

Figure 3.18Figure 3.18 Removing the mini-PCI card.

3 Bend the retainer latches to the side.
4 Lift/pull the card out of the slot.

Keyboard

Keyboard removal and installation can be different from system to system. For this example, to remove the keyboard you start by turning the system over and removing a couple screws, as shown in Figure 3.19.

Figure 3.19Figure 3.19 Removing the keyboard retainer screws.

Callouts:

1 Remove the keyboard retainer screws.

Now turn the system over, reach under the front of the keyboard, lifting and pushing the keyboard toward the screen as you press the locking tab under the front to disengage it. Then lift the keyboard up and away from the system, disconnecting the cable that is underneath (see Figure 3.20).

Figure 3.20Figure 3.20 Removing the keyboard.

Callouts:

2 Press the locking tab.
3 Push the keyboard toward the screen.
4 Lift the keyboard up and out.

CMOS Battery

The CMOS battery powers the CMOS RAM and clock in the system. To remove it, simply unplug the cable and lift the battery out of the system, as shown in Figure 3.21.

PC Card/CardBus Slot Assembly

The PC Card slots are removed as a complete assembly. Begin by turning the laptop over and removing the retainer screws from the bottom of the system. Note that some of them may be covered with small plastic stickers; if so, peel off the stickers to get to the necessary screws (see Figure 3.22).

Turn the system back right side up and then remove the PC Card slot assembly from the top (see Figure 3.23).

Communications Daughter Card (CDC)

Communications Daughter Cards (CDCs) are similar to mini-PCI cards in that they provide a way for modern laptop systems to offer expansion. CDCs are normally V.92 modem cards, but they are also available with Bluetooth wireless personal area networking as well. To remove the CDC, turn the system upside down and remove the retainer screws (see Figure 3.24).

Figure 3.21Figure 3.21 Removing the CMOS battery.

1 Disconnect the CMOS battery cable.
2 Remove the CMOS battery.

Figure 3.22Figure 3.22 Removing PC Card/CardBus slot retainer screws.

Callouts:

1 Remove the PC Card slot retainer screws.

Figure 3.23Figure 3.23 Removing the PC Card/CardBus slot assembly.

Callouts:

2 Remove the PC Card slot assembly.

Figure 3.24Figure 3.24 Removing Communications Daughter Card (CDC) retainer screws.

Callouts:

1 Remove the CDC retainer screws.
2 Remove the CDC retainer screw.

Now turn the system upright, locate the CDC, and then disconnect it and lift it out of the system. Note that there may be both modem and Bluetooth antenna connections, which will have to be unplugged (see Figure 3.25).

Figure 3.25Figure 3.25 Removing the Communications Daughter Card (CDC).

Callouts:

3 Unplug the CDC and Bluetooth antenna connections.
4 Unplug the modem connection.

CPU Heatsink/Fan

The CPU heatsink/fan assembly usually consists of a heat pipe assembly, with a fan at one end and a heavy metal plate that attaches to the CPU at the other. This device cools the processor and possibly the rest of the system as well. To remove it, take out the retainer screws and then lift the assembly up and out of the system, as shown in Figure 3.26.

CPU (Pentium M Processor)

Most modern laptops utilize socketed desktop or mobile processors. They are normally installed in a ZIF (zero insertion force) socket that uses a locking mechanism to hold or release the chip. Instead of using a lever to actuate the socket, as on desktop systems, most laptops use a small screw. To unlock the ZIF socket, turn the screw counterclockwise. Then you can carefully lift the processor out of the socket (see Figure 3.27).

Now turn the system upright, remove the remaining screws holding the display hinges and the cable, and unplug the cable connections (see Figure 3.29).

Figure 3.26Figure 3.26 Removing CPU heatsink/fan assembly.

Callouts:

1 Remove the CPU heatsink/fan retainer screws.
2 Disconnect the fan cable from the motherboard.
3, 4, 5 Lift the heatsink/fan assembly up and out.

LCD Display

To remove the LCD display, first invert the system and remove the retaining screw from the bottom (see Figure 3.28).

Next, you can lift the display hinges off the pegs or studs they are sitting on and then separate the display from the system, as shown in Figure 3.30.

Keyboard Bezel

To remove the keyboard bezel, turn the system upside down and remove the retaining screws. Note that many of these screws may be under cosmetic stickers, which you must remove in order to take out the screws (see Figure 3.31).

Now turn the system upright and then lift the keyboard bezel up and off the chassis, as shown in Figure 3.32.

Now remove the board by pulling out the lever while lifting the board up and out of the system, as shown in Figure 3.34.

Motherboard

To remove the motherboard, begin by taking out the retaining screws, as shown in Figure 3.33.

Figure 3.27Figure 3.27 Removing the CPU.

Callouts:

1 Turn the screw on ZIF socket counter clockwise to unlock the CPU. Then lift the CPU out of the socket.

Figure 3.28Figure 3.28 Removing the LCD base retaining screw.

Callouts:

1 Remove the LCD retaining screw from the bottom of the unit.

Figure 3.29Figure 3.29 Removing LCD hinge and cable retaining screws.

Callouts:

2 Remove the LCD cable retaining screws.
3 Unplug the LCD cable.
4 Remove the LCD hinge screws.

Figure 3.30Figure 3.30 Removing the LCD.

Callouts:

5 Lift the display off the hinges.

Figure 3.31Figure 3.31 Removing the keyboard bezel retaining screws.

Callouts:

1, 2 Remove the keyboard bezel retainer screws.

Figure 3.32Figure 3.32 Removing the keyboard bezel.

Callouts:

3 Remove the keyboard bezel.

Figure 3.33Figure 3.33 Removing the motherboard retaining screws.

Callouts:

1 Remove the motherboard retaining screws.
2 Pull out the release lever.

Figure 3.34Figure 3.34 Removing the motherboard.

Callouts:

2 Pull out the release lever.
3, 4 Lift the motherboard up and out.

BIOS Setup

Most systems have the setup program built right in to the ROM BIOS software. These built-in setup programs are activated by a key sequence usually entered during the POST. Most systems show a prompt on the screen during the POST indicating which key to press to enter the BIOS Setup.

The major vendors have standardized on the following keystrokes to enter the BIOS Setup:

If your system does not respond to one of these common keystroke settings, you might have to contact the manufacturer or read the system documentation to find the correct keystrokes to enter Setup.

Here are some unique ones I have encountered:

After you're in the BIOS Setup main screen, you'll usually find a main menu allowing access to other menus and submenus offering various sections or screens. When you get the Setup program running, record all the settings. The easiest way to do this is to print it. If a printer is connected, press Shift+Print Screen; a copy of the screen display will be sent to the printer. Some setup programs have several pages of information, so you should record the information on each page.

Some setup programs allow for specialized control of the particular chipset used in the motherboard. These complicated settings can take up to several screens of information, which you may want to record. Most systems return these settings to a BIOS default if the CMOS battery is removed, and you lose any customized settings you might have changed.

Accessing BIOS Setup for Specific Makes and Models

This section shows some of the procedures required to enter BIOS Setup using keystrokes on specific popular laptop models.

IBM

Table 3.4 shows the methods used to run the BIOS Setup routines on all IBM ThinkPad systems.

Table 3.4 Entering BIOS Setup on IBM ThinkPads

Current ThinkPad Models

To Run BIOS Setup:

240 series 390 series 570 series i Series 1200 i Series 1300 i Series 1400 i Series 1500 i Series 172x A20, A21, A22, A30, A31 R30, R31, R32, S30, S31 T20, T21, T22, T23, T30 X20, X21, X22, X23, X24, X30, X31

Power on. Press F1 when the ThinkPad logo is displayed during startup.

TransNote

 

R40, R40e, T40

Power on. Press the blue "Access IBM" button during startup when the message "To interrupt normal startup, press the blue Access IBM button" is displayed. Then select "Start setup utility" to run the BIOS Setup Utility.

Older ThinkPad Models

To Run BIOS Setup:

300350500, 510

Press CTRL+Alt+F3 at an MS-DOS prompt. The system must be in MS- DOS mode and not in a DOS session under Windows.

310, 315310E/ED315ED

Power on. Press F2 while the ThinkPad logo is displayed during startup.

365C/CS365CD/CSD365E/ED

Press CTRL+Alt+F11 at an MS-DOS prompt. The system must be in MS-DOS mode and not in a DOS session under Windows.

365X/XD

With the unit powered off, press and hold the F1 key while powering the unit on. Continue to hold the F1 key down until Setup appears.

360, 355 series380, 385 series560 series600 series701C/CS75x series76x series770 series

With the unit powered off, press and hold the F1 key while powering the unit on. Continue to hold the F1 key down until Setup appears. On the TP 701, you can also access BIOS Setup by pressing the Fn+F1 keys atanytime.

700/C, 720/C

Power on. Press CTRL+ALT+INS when the cursor moves over to the upper-right side of the screen, right after the memory count during startup.

710T, 730T

Press and hold the suspend/resume switch while powering on the computer.

Toshiba

The methods discussed first in this section are used to run the BIOS Setup routines on Toshiba laptop systems for the following Toshiba models:

All Libretto, all Portege, Satellite 100CS, 105CS, 105CT, 110CS, 110CT, 115CS, 115CT, 1555CDS, 200CDS, 205CDS, 2060CDS, 2065CDS, 2065CDT, 2100CDS, 2100CDT, 2105CDS, 2140XCDS, 2180CDT, 2210CDT, 2210XCDS, 2250CDT, 2250XCDS, 225CDS, 2500CDT, 2505CDS, 2505CDT, 2510CDS, 2515CDS, 2530CDS, 2535CDS, 2540CDS, 2545CDS, 2590CDT, 2595CDS, 2595CDT, 2595XDVD, 2615DVD, 2655XDVD, 2675DVD, 2715DVD, 2715XDVD, 2755DVD, 2775XDVD, 300CDS, 305CDS, 305CDT, 310CDS, 310CDT, 315CDS, 315CDT, 320CDS, 320CDT, 325CDS, 325CDT, 330CDS, 330CDT, 335CDS, 335CDT, 4000CDS, 4000CDT, 4005CDS, 4005CDT, 4010CDS, 4010CDT, 4015CDS, 1805-S177, 4015CDT, 4020CDT, 4025CDT, 4030CDT, 4060CDT, 4080CDT, 4080XCDT, 4085XCDT, 1415-S115, 1415-S105, 2410-S204, 1410-S174, 2410-S203, 1410-S173, 1415-S174, 1415-S173, 1405-S172, 1405-S171, 1400-S152, 2400-S252, 2400-S202, 2400-S251, 2400-S201, 1400-S151, 2405-S202, 1405-S152, 2405-S221, 2405-S201, 1405-S151, 4090XDVD, 4100XDVD, 2800-S201, 2805-S201, T2100, T2100CS, T2100CT, T2105CS, T2105CS, T2105CT, T2110CS, T2115CS, T2130CS, T2130CT, T2150CDS, T2150CDT, T2155CDS, 2800-S202, 2805-S301, 2805-S401, 2805-S202, 2805-S302, 2805-S402, 1805-S203, 1805-S253, 1800-S203, 1800-S253, 2805-S503, 2805-S603, 2590CDS, 2590XDVD, 2695DVD, 220CDS, 2545XCDT, 1805-S273, 1805-S204, 1805-S254, 1805-S274, 1800-S204, 1800-S254, 2060CDT, 1800-S206, 1800-S256, 1805-S255, 1805-S154, 1805-S207, 1800-S207, 1800-S274, 1805-S278, 1805-S208, all Satellite Pro, all TE-Series, and all Tecra

There are three ways to run the BIOS Setup on these models:

The next method discussed in this section is for the following Toshiba models:

Satellite 1605CDS, 1625CDT, 1675CDS, 1695CDT, 1715XCDS, 1735, 1755, 1730, 1750, 3005-S303, 3005-S403, 3000-S353, 3005-S304, 3000-S304, 3000-S307, 3005-S308, 1005-S157, 1000-S157, 1005-S158, 3005-S307, 3000-S309, 1905-S277, 1000-S158, 1200-S121, 1200-S122, 1905-S301, 1955-S801, 1955-S802, 1100-S101, 1905-S302, 1105, 1115-S103, 1905-S303, 1955-S803, 1905-S304, 1955-S804, 1110-S153, and 1115-S104

These models use a Phoenix BIOS. To access the BIOS Setup on these systems, the system must be off, and not in sleep/suspend or hibernate mode. Press the power button and then immediately press and hold down the F2 key. When the POST (Power On Self Test) finishes, the BIOS Setup screen will appear.

The final method discussed is for the following Toshiba models:

Satellite 5005-S504, 5005-S507, 5005-S508, 5105-S607, 5105-S608, 5105-S501, 5105-S701, 5105-S502, 5105-S702, 5105-S901, 5205-S503, 5205-S703, 5205-S504, and 5205-S704

These are "legacy-free" models, and they do not incorporate a BIOS Setup program in the motherboard ROM. The only way to run BIOS Setup is using a Windows-based BIOS Setup utility called HWSetup. The HWSetup utility comes preinstalled on these Toshiba models, and it is also contained in the Toshiba Utilities package for these models, which can be downloaded from the Toshiba support Web site. To run HWSetup, open the Control Panel and double-click the HWSetup program. HWSetup provides a graphical front end for modifying BIOS settings. Note that if you change any settings, you may be required to restart the system.

Compaq

The following methods are used to run the BIOS Setup routines on Compaq laptop systems:

Dell, Gateway, and Others

To run the BIOS Setup routines on Dell, Gateway, Sony, Acer, MPC, FOSA, and most other laptop systems, power on the system and then press F2 to enter BIOS Setup when the logo screen appears during startup.

Running the BIOS Setup Program (CMOS Setup)

After everything is reassembled, you can power up the system and run the BIOS Setup program. This enables you to configure the motherboard to access the installed devices and set the system date and time. The system also tests itself to determine whether any problems exists. Here are the steps to follow:

  1. Power on the system. Observe the operation via the screen and listen for any beeps from the system speaker.

  2. The system should automatically go through a Power On Self Test (POST) consisting of video BIOS checking, a RAM test, and usually an installed component report. If a fatal error occurs during the POST, you might not see anything onscreen, and the system might beep several times, indicating a specific problem. Check the motherboard or the BIOS documentation to determine what the beep codes mean.

  3. If there are no fatal errors, you should see the POST display onscreen. Depending on the type of motherboard BIOS, such as Phoenix, AMI, Award, or others, you must press a key or series of keys to interrupt the normal boot sequence and get to the Setup program screens that enable you to enter important system information. Normally, the system indicates via the onscreen display which key to press to activate the BIOS setup program during the POST, but if it doesn't, check the manual for the key(s) to press to enter the BIOS setup. Common keys used to enter BIOS Setup are F1, F2, F10, Esc, Ins, and Del.

  4. After the Setup program is running, use the Setup program menus to enter the current date and time, your hard drive settings, floppy drive types, video cards, keyboard settings, and so on. Most newer BIOSes can autodetect the hard drive, so you should not have to manually enter any parameters for it.

  5. Entering the hard drive information is the most critical when building a new system. Most modern BIOSes feature an autodetect or auto-type setting for the drive; I recommend you choose that if it is available. This causes the BIOS to read the parameters directly from the drive, which eliminates a chance for errors—especially if the builder is less experienced. These parameters include CHS (Cylinder Head Sector) specifications and transfer speed and translation settings. Most systems also let you set a user-definable type, which means that the cylinder, head, and sector counts for this type were entered manually and are not constant. If you set a user-definable type (not normally recommended unless you don't have "auto" as a choice), it is especially important that you write down the exact settings you use because this information might be very difficult to figure out if it is ever lost.

    6. Modern ATA drives also have additional configuration items that you should record. These include the translation mode and transfer speed setting. With drives larger than 528MB, you should record the translation mode, which is expressed differently in different BIOS versions. Look for a setting such as CHS, ECHS (Extended CHS), Large (which equals ECHS), or LBA (Logical Block Addressing). Typically, you set LBA or Large for any drive over 528MB. Whatever you set, it should be recorded because changing this setting after the drive has been formatted can cause problems.

  6. After you have checked over all the settings in the BIOS Setup, follow the instructions on the screen or in the motherboard manual to save the settings and exit the Setup menu.

Dealing with Passwords

Laptop systems have a level of integrated password security not found in most desktop systems. These passwords are separate and distinct from any passwords required by the operating system or other applications installed on the machine. This section examines the passwords specifically associated with laptop systems and their hard disks.

Password Types

Some laptop systems can have up to three passwords set on them. Two of these passwords are very secure, meaning that if they are lost, you have essentially no way to recover them, thus rendering the hard drive and/or motherboard completely nonfunctional.

CAUTION

These are not benign passwords that can easily be circumvented or reset. If you lose these passwords, short of some very specialized and expensive services (for which you will have to provide proof of ownership), you will not be able to use the motherboard or access the data on the hard disk, even if you move the drive to another system! In fact, both the motherboard and the hard disk will have to be replaced, and all your data will be lost. Clearly it is important to understand these passwords, because if you set them, the implications of losing or forgetting them are quite severe.

These three passwords are as follows:

If either the POP or HDP has been set, prompts for this password will appear on the screen whenever the system is powered on. The system will not continue until the respective password is entered. If only an SVP is set, it will also set the HDP to the same value, and yet no password prompt will appear during normal operation. Instead, the password prompt will appear only when the BIOS Setup is run.

Power-On Password (POP)

The power-on password is a feature available in many portable systems, and it's stored in the CMOS RAM. If it's lost, the POP can be erased in most systems by setting a password-clear jumper (located normally on the motherboard) or by removing the CMOS battery. You will normally find instructions for clearing the POP in the user manual or service manual for your specific system.

If a POP is set, you will be prompted (the prompt normally looks like an image of a padlock with a screen next to it) for the password at the following times:

To set a power-on password, follow these steps:

  1. Run the BIOS Setup by pressing and holding the F1 key while turning on the computer.

  2. Select the Password icon and then the Power-On icon.

  3. Type in your desired password and then press Enter. You can use any combination of up to seven alphanumeric characters (A–Z, 0–9). Letters are not case sensitive, meaning that upper- and lowercase letters are treated the same.

  4. Type in the password again to verify it. Then press Enter.

  5. Select Exit and then Restart.

To change a power-on password, follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the system, wait at least 5 seconds, and then turn it back on.

  2. When the POP prompt appears, type in the current password and then press the spacebar.

  3. Type in the new password and then press the spacebar. Remember to use no more than seven characters.

  4. Type in the new password again to verify it. Then press Enter.

To remove a power-on password, follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the system, wait at least 5 seconds, and then turn it back on.

  2. When the POP prompt appears, type in the current password, press the spacebar, and then press Enter.

To remove a power-on password that you have lost or forgotten, use one of the following two procedures.

First, if no Supervisor password (SVP) has been set, follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the system.

  2. Remove the main battery.

  3. Remove the backup (CMOS) battery. The CMOS battery is usually located under the keyboard or next to the memory modules in most systems. See the owner's or service manual to determine the exact location in a given system.

  4. Turn the system on and wait until the POST ends. After the POST ends, no password prompt should appear, indicating that the POP has been removed.

  5. Power the system off and then reinstall the backup (CMOS) and main batteries.

Second, if a Supervisor password (SVP) has been set and is known, follow these steps:

  1. Run the BIOS Setup by pressing and holding the F1 key while turning on the computer.

  2. At the password prompt, type in the Supervisor password and then press Enter. The BIOS Setup screen should appear.

  3. Select the Password icon and then the Power-On icon.

  4. Type in the Supervisor password, press the spacebar, press Enter, and then press Enter again.

  5. Select Exit and then Restart.

Hard Disk Password (HDP)

A hard disk password provides a great deal of additional security for your data over the existing power-on password. Even if you set a POP, somebody could still remove the hard drive from your system and then install the drive into another system where he or she could access your data. However, if you set an HDP, nobody else will be able to access the data on the drive in any system without first knowing the password. Because the HDP is actually stored on the hard disk, it stays with the drive until you remove or change it. Doing that, however, requires that you know the password to begin with.

If a hard disk password is set, you will be prompted (the HDP prompt normally appears as an image of a padlock next to a disk cylinder) for the password at the following times and under the following circumstances:

To set a hard disk password, follow these steps:

  1. Run the BIOS Setup by pressing and holding the F1 key and then turning on the computer.

  2. Select the Password icon and then the HDD-1 or HDD-2 icon, according to which drive you want to set.

  3. Type in your desired password and then press Enter. You can use any combination of up to seven alphanumeric characters (A–Z, 0–9). Letters are not case sensitive, meaning that upper- and lowercase letters are treated the same.

  4. Type in the password again to verify it. Then press Enter.

  5. Select Exit and then Restart.

To change a hard disk password, follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the system, wait at least 5 seconds, and then turn it back on.

  2. When the HDP prompt appears, type in the current password and then press the spacebar.

  3. Type in the new password and then press the spacebar. Remember to use no more than seven characters.

  4. Type in the new password again to verify it. Then press Enter.

To remove a hard disk password, follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the system, wait at least 5 seconds, and then turn it back on.

  2. When the HDP prompt appears, type in the current password, press the Spacebar, and then press Enter.

Most 2.5-inch laptop hard drives support the HDP feature, which can be set using the BIOS Setup in most laptop systems. The HDP can prevent any unauthorized user from ever accessing your hard disk, even if the drive is removed from the system. Make sure you keep a copy of the password in a safe place, because if you lose it, you have no way to ever access the drive again! Without the HDP, the drive and all your data will be forever locked up and inaccessible.

Supervisor Password (SVP)

The Supervisor password provides a different level of security than the POP. The SVP protects the hardware configuration (BIOS Setup) from unauthorized modification.

If a Supervisor password (SVP) is set on a system, you will normally be prompted (the SVP prompt normally appears as an image of a padlock next to a person) for the password only when the BIOS Setup is accessed.

The Supervisor password is provided for a system administrator to control multiple systems. The SVP is set by the system administrator, and subsequently is not required by the users to use the system. In other words, the users can start their systems without knowing or providing the SVP. The SVP is required only to access the BIOS Setup, and it provides the following security features:

A system administrator can set the same SVP on multiple systems to make administration easier.

To set a Supervisor password, follow these steps:

  1. Run the BIOS Setup by pressing and holding the F1 key while turning on the computer.

  2. Select the Password icon and then the Supervisor icon.

  3. Type in your desired password and then press Enter. You can use any combination of up to seven alphanumeric characters (A–Z, 0–9). Letters are not case sensitive, meaning that upper- and lowercase letters are treated the same.

  4. Type in the password again to verify it. Then press Enter.

  5. Select Exit and then Restart.

To change a Supervisor password, follow these steps:

  1. Run the BIOS Setup by pressing and holding the F1 key while turning on the computer.

  2. At the password prompt, type in the Supervisor password and then press Enter. The BIOS Setup screen should then appear.

  3. Select the Password icon and then the Supervisor icon.

  4. Type in the current password and then press the spacebar.

  5. Type in the new password and then press Enter.

  6. Type in the new password again to verify it. Then press Enter twice.

  7. Select Exit and then Restart.

To remove a Supervisor password, follow these steps:

  1. Run the BIOS Setup by pressing and holding the F1 key while turning on the computer.

  2. At the password prompt, type in the Supervisor password and press Enter. The BIOS Setup screen should then appear.

  3. Select the Password icon and then the Supervisor icon.

  4. Type in the current password and then press the spacebar.

  5. Press Enter twice.

  6. Select Exit and then Restart.

Note that when an SVP is set on a system, it automatically sets the HDP to the same value. The user will be unaware that any passwords are set, because in this situation when the system boots up, the BIOS will automatically provide both passwords and the system will appear to boot normally. However, as soon as an attempt is made to go into the BIOS Setup, or when the system hardware is upgraded or the hard disk is swapped into another system, it will refuse to boot unless the SVP (and HDP, which would be the same value) is provided.

CAUTION

If you are purchasing a used laptop system, be sure that all passwords, especially the Supervisor password and hard disk password, are cleared from the system, otherwise insure that you know for sure what they are. A system with these passwords set and yet unknown is almost worthless, because without the SVP and HDP, you will not be able to use the system or access the hard disk and will instead have an expensive paperweight.

POP, HDP, and SVP Password Cracking?

If you lose the hard disk password and/or the Supervisor password for a system, IBM and most other manufacturers will tell you straight out that pretty much all is lost. Here is a quote from IBM's documentation:

"If you forget your hard-disk-drive or supervisor password, there is no way to reset your password or recover data from the hard disk. You have to take your computer to an IBM reseller or an IBM marketing representative to have the hard disk or the system board replaced. Proof of purchase is required, and an additional charge might be required for the service. Neither an IBM reseller nor IBM marketing representative can make the hard disk drive usable."

Although this sounds pretty bleak, one company has broken the laptop hardware security, allowing both motherboards and hard drives with lost passwords to be recovered. The company is called Nortek (http://www.nortek.on.ca), and it's the first company I know of to figure out a way around the hardware security. Unfortunately, the recovery services aren't cheap, because the security chip must be removed from the motherboard as well as the drive, and a new one soldered in—a fairly delicate operation. The fees for hard drive recovery are as follows:

Considering that you can get a new 80GB or larger laptop hard drive for that price, you can see why you don't want to lose the HDP. Nortek can also recover a motherboard with a lost Supervisor password for a flat fee of $95.

Because of the possibility of theft, I do recommend setting both the SVP and HDP on your laptop system. That way, if the system is ever stolen, the thief not only won't be able to get to the data on your drive, but he or she won't be able to use the laptop itself, because the motherboard will be locked up. If the thief then tries to send it to Nortek, he or she will run into a policy Nortek has that states

"Nortek Co Ltd. realizes the significant responsibility that is associated with circumventing the security features of IBM ThinkPad laptop computers and their associated Travelstar hard disks. With our exclusive technology we provide hardware reclamation and data recovery services for only legitimate owners of these systems.

We will not knowingly recover lost passwords on equipment that has been unlawfully obtained. Nortek requires proof of ownership prior to performing any recovery procedures. Nortek retains the serial number from any system shipped to us for password removal. All systems received are thoroughly investigated to ensure the customer is the rightful owner; any suspicious units are dealt with promptly."

Nortek also has a link on its site to the Stolen Computer Registry at http://www.stolencomputers.org, which is a worldwide clearinghouse for information on stolen computers. If I had my system stolen, I would not hesitate to contact both the Stolen Computer Registry and Nortek to let them know the serial numbers of my system so they would be on the lookout for my system showing up for possible "recovery." That way, with the SVP and HDP both set, I can at least rest fairly assured that the thief will have a paperweight on his or her hands, with no access to my data.

Windows Passwords

The power-on password, hard disk password, and Supervisor password are all based on the system hardware and have nothing to do with Windows or any other operating system. As such, these hardware-based passwords do not preclude the use of additional passwords that can be set and maintained through Windows or other operating systems. Refer to your operating system documentation for more information on passwords maintained by the operating system.